OKAY! We have moved on to one of the more interesting sections of our project, the Vortex Fog Delivery System™ which I developed at the turn of the century to move fog without using fans so the resulting fog is much thicker than it would be otherwise. This early version of the system shown here is fully sealed which I installed in the pedestal of the prop, making this a fully on-board event. Later breakthroughs on the Vortex system would have made considerable improvements to this assembly, but this did work well enough. And since it is sealed, there will not be excess truant fog seeping out of the cracks of the pedestal. In the photo above you can see the elements of our collecting chamber. A 5" ABS clean out T, a reducer fitting from 5" down to the 2" nipple fitting we will install directly to the front of the fogger, two sections of 5" pipe and two end caps. All we need is enough room inside the chamber to allow our fog to change from fluid to gas, so this will be adequate for our needs on the chair. Here in the right photo you will see the needed items to seal your fogger to the fog routing system; three 1" x 1" L brackets, some #8 x 3/8" sheet metal screws, a 2" ABS slip fitting, some PVC cement primer and a can of PVC cement. In the close up to our left we see the surface of the slip fitting that will be attached to the fogger has been sanded down on an angle to match the angle we will need to direct our fog downward and into the chamber. If you look close you will also see two notches needed to clear two tiny screw heads on the face of the fogger so our fit will be flush and perfectly sealed. Next we attach the L brackets to the slip fitting with some screws so they will be flush or just above the bottom edge of the fitting, so we can pull the fitting down tight to the fogger face when the screws are installed. Then clean the mating edge of the fitting with your primer and also the front of the fogger where they will meet. This will emulsify the surface of the plastic face as well as the fitting so when we apply the cement, we will be bonding to the plastic on a deeper level than just surface only, making sure it is a secure bond. Pre fit the the fitting centered to the nozzle prior to gluing so you are certain of your placement. Then of course glue the two surfaces and attach with screws. You might want to also check whether the tip of your screws that may stick out past the surface of the fogger face won't puncture anything behind.

   Now you are ready to attach the fogger to the clean-out T fitting. You will be gluing these parts together for a sealed fit also, as they will not stay together and sealed with friction only. Also glue the 5" pipe sections into place. You will need to measure these, but I believe the pipe on the right was 10" long and the left was 12". But the idea is to center the fogger in the pedestal and the expansion chamber will travel from side to side of the box. Leave at least 1 1/2" of excess space on the left side, as we will be using that for a special fitting.  In the photo to your left I have set up a carpenter's square to mark the exact top of my 5" pipes so I can drill holes and thread the pipe wall for 1" PVC fittings I will use to attach the ducting that will run through the chair. I have measured to the center of where the pipes will be coming up through the top of the pedestal and through the front legs of the chair and used a hole saw to drill my pilot holes in preparation. Next I will need to make a thread tap for this size pipe fitting. I have screwed a short 1 1/4" pipe nipple into a reducer to hold it (a T fitting works the best as a handle, but I didn't have one of those laying around when I made this tap). Then I sanded the threads down on the fitting across a little over a 1/2" so that the end threads were gone. That tapered back up to full threads at the top 1/5 th of my fitting. Now I use a die grinder with a super thin 1/16" cut off grinder blade to cut slots across the threads and up just over a 1/2" distance to where the die's threads are full height. I am showing the blade inserted into the pipe fitting the correct way your cut needs to be made with it tilting slightly, as we need for the leading edge of the threads of our cut to be angled forward and sharp so they will cut the plastic and guide the shavings to the inside of the tap so they won't bind up while making our threads. I put about 4 cuts into this tap. The pilot hole I cut was 1 1/16" which was not quite as large as I really needed to get my 1 1/4" tap to start cutting, so I had to open it up a little with a cylinder grinder (not shown) until the tap would just fit. Once it did, I turn it down with a crescent wrench until I have buried the tap as deep into the pipe as I could to make sure the threads are fully cut and clean inside the hole. And here you see the 1" PVC threaded fitting (male end) to a slip fitting opposite threaded securely into the holes. Be sure to use teflon plumber's tape on the threads to make an air tight seal. In this photo on the right you can see a short galvanized pipe that has been fitted into the bottom of the cap that has been glued into place. This is important if you are using a fogger or fluid that will create unspent glycol residue during operation. This fluid will build up inside the expansion chamber and then eventually create a problem, not to mention will spill out of the whole assembly via the nozzle and face connection of the fogger when the chair and pedestal are tilted backward to move it. So we install this pipe with a thumb-tight cap on it so we can remove the decorative diamondplate cover on the right side of the pedestal revealing an opening we will cut into the wood side that will allow easy access to this drain pipe. Then it is only a matter of tilting the chair to the side and draining the excess unspent fluid away after use.  To thread the plastic of the stopper cap for our 1 1/2" length of 1/8" pipe we will need to make another tap as we did a moment ago. Here is the one I made, using a T fitting as a handle as mentioned previous.

   And there you have it! You will need to remove the fluid tank from your fogger so you will have a way to remove the tank from the pedestal to replace the spent fluid as shown here. This will be held in place next to the fogger with L brackets once we install our fog assembly.