Following your cut out list, we will start with the back (Y) and the inside back stiles (C). Attach by screwing through sides into the back using 2" drywall screws and yellow woodworker's glue to securely attach. Remember, every joint that is not removable for some reason must be as well fastened as possible to resist the concussions the chair will go through while in use. Remember to measure down 7" from the top of the sides and be sure to center the back on each stile. When using screws into plywood (DO NOT use Flake or Particle board for this project, as it cannot stand up to the demands of this animated prop) never get closer to the end than 3". Here you are seeing approx. a 3 1/2" spacing. Any closer than that and you run the very real risk of splitting the plywood down the center. Always be sure to predrill your screw hole at least 3/4" in before sinking the screw.

(Note; All vertical pieces of wood on a structure are stiles while all horizontal pieces are rails.)  

    Now add the front panels to the sides (A). For this portion I am using a 1/4" crown stapler using 1 1/2" long staples. This will be ample strength for this section. Look carefully at the larger photo of the one on the left and you will see that A is 3/4" shorter C. The difference will be that the inside stile will be 3/4" below the front section A. Remember to keep the edges flush and use a generous amount of glue. To clean off the excess immediately after your pieces are attached, wipe well with a damp rag and it will clean right off.

   Flip the back assembly over and solidly attach the back stiles (B). Notice I have also stapled in place the top caps (Z) that helps keep my pieces square as well as stable while I handle this section.  It is important these are a single piece of wood, as we are relying on them for all of our serious vertical support. Look closely at the dimensional picture that shows the back of the chair. You will see that the back stile B is overlaid to C the same way that A is. This will create a flush opening on each side of the chair that will go from the top of the back stiles to the floor that can then be capped off with stile G, fully overlaying both B and A. That means G (the side pieces) can be attached using only drywall screws and can be removed at any time for access to the inside of the hollow legs where the fog directional piping will be.

    Once flipped back over again the back assembly will look like this. We are now looking at the seat section where you would rest your back. Laying on the back is the LEFT armrest already glued and stapled together. The lower piece  (J) is set back 3 5 /8" from the back edge of the horizontal piece H. And if you look closely you will see a 3/4" X 3/4" notch at the back of this piece that will fit over the edge of the 3/4" exposed section of the inside back stiles. Here is a close up of how they will fit together. Notice that the top (H) is slipped UNDER the bottom edge of the front back stile A. Be sure to attach these two piece with screws and glue, as this is a critical stress point. I carefully predrilled two holes in the back of the lower piece as you an see here as I wanted this to be as secure as possible. If you don't predrill carefully you will split this narrow piece of plywood. For my connection of this piece, J to the inside back stile A, I used mending plates (2) on the inside of the channel as you will see in upcoming photos.

   Your assembly will now look like the photo on the left. Now we will assemble the small L shaped sections that will go under the arm rest in both the front and back of the seat (M & D). Remember, your end grain on M will be visible, making that piece overlaid to the fully concealed edges of D. This is how it will look attached. Be careful to keep the joint perfectly flush so you will need little or no belt sanding to surface them. My end goal with the chair I made was for it to look like it was made out of steel. I just didn't want to have to try to move around a 450 pound electric chair in and out of the haunt to set it up!

   In this next shot you can see the assembly of the bottom of the arm rest that is attached to the short L shaped legs just assembled above. Look carefully at the draftings that show which edge is exposed and which isn't. This is a serious jigsaw puzzle and there is really no room for error in assembly if you want all your edges to line up flush with one another, giving the look of solid steel tube. This assembly, made up of the M & D assembly attached to Z-I will be butt joined to the side of the vertical arm rest section J. The photo on the left gives you a bird's eye view of the assembly that will make more sense to you when you see it attached to the arm rest and seat box. We will see that on the next page of our how-to.