ThE LynCHinG - 10 -

   Now you will finish up putting your inlet fitting on the air line, the male 110 V 2 prong plug to your electric line and solder or crimp clamp your small cord end from the tape player that goes to the back of your dummy.

   When you hang your dummy up make sure you zip tie your air, electric and steel cord together to prepare for the rope wrapping. And be sure to use a heavy gauge eye bolt in the gallows for the steel cord, as this guy jerks pretty hard against the connections.  

   This is a look at our boy once fitted with a head and dressed. I simply put 3 wraps of rope around the gallows that hid the eye bolt he is hanging from as well as the air line and electrical cord that is routed out of the gallows at exactly the same point, and stapled it in place on top. Then, laying the rope against the bundled and zip-tied together group of air line, electric and steel cord to bulk out the "noose" I wrapped the rope around the very top of the bundle as tight as I could without crushing the air line and continued the wrap to the bottom of the bundle then zip-tied it off. Then with another separate section of rope, I wrapped a single line around his neck that was then cut off where it met at the back of his neck, just overlapping about 2 inches and then zip-tied together. Now he will be fully removable as mentioned earlier, from his grim fate. The wig head was covered using a simple sand bag from Harbor Freight Tools that was sewn rounded instead of square which would also look great too. Then I cut and shredded the ends of the excess part of the bag. Use a wire brush to shred cloth for a fast and really worn look.

   Stage Hands were attached to the end of the arms with about 3 screws apiece, then tied with the same heavy hemp rope we used to hang him with and wrap in a cross across his chest. You will need to buy 30 feet of rope to do everything. 

   When we dressed our jerk we used a long sleeve shirt under the over shirt so I can add not only layering to soften the shape of the skeleton underneath, but also to cover up the crap load of machinations inside. I screwed the undershirt to the stomach uprights up by the chest joints to keep it taught and then tucked in the bottom and screwed through the pants and shirt to the waist to keep the small slit you see here centered over the motion detector window. In the low light he will be in this will look like nothing more than a holy shirt, but if the undershirt had been black, it would have been totally stealth. With the over shirt open at the bottom, it hangs just right to keep this area clear.

   Here is a look at the finished product up close. Even on top of this guy, you can't tell the skeleton hasn't been padded around the chest or stomach area, meaning you can keep the entire chest cavity open air inside and staying cool during operation. Here is another little detail I decided to add once I had him functioning nicely. I attached black braided fishing line which is totally invisible in even dim light, to the gallows and to each side of his hips. One line is shorter than the other, so when he begins to thrash the left side hits the end of the line first, pulling the dummy to the left until it slaps against the end of the right line which whips him back to the right. So his movements aren't just his legs going up and down, the whole body is thrashing against the grips of death. 

 

   And here is the Lynching in his full gory. After this many set backs, it was very rewarding seeing him work this well. His movements and sound were very satisfactory and his looks were convincing enough to make you sort of queazy while watching him squirm and eventually die! Success! I hope you have a very smooth road to your project and if you build your own version of this guy, please email me a photo of the finished product to put up on my website here for others to see as well. See the video of the Lynching here.

Rest In Pieces,

Death Lord

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