ThE LynCHinG - 3 -

   To begin building our skeleton we must first address the special joints this will use so the arms are adjustable to the right position once it's completed and the knees will bend while in action. This joint is achieved by cutting a scoop out of the front of the lower leg section for instance, and a larger scoop out of the back of the same section so that the upper leg will be able to slip down inside the two ends now sticking up on each side and will be able to bend one way, just like a real knee or elbow. Of course the upper section of pipe will need to be rounded at the end to allow for a "ball" for our "socket", so that will be the next step. Let's take a look now at the front and back of our knee here to get a clear picture of how much of a scoop will need to be cut from the front and also the back of the lower section.

   The left picture shows the front of the elbow or leg and of course the right one is the back, showing how the scoop there will need to be lower. If you look closed not only is the end of the upper piece rounded at the end, but the inside of the lower part is belled out and the inside edges have been beveled inside the cut out to allow more space for the top piece to move freely inside the joint. So how did we round the one and bell the other? It wasn't that hard.

   To round the end of the upper section I used a wine glass, as it had a rounded bottom inside and I need to use that as a mold for the plastic. The heat gun brought the PVC up to a soft, pliable point in just a couple of minutes and I simply pressed the end to the bottom of the glass  and held it there until the plastic cooled. You can also pour cold water in the glass and have this set in a couple of seconds to save some time. Once you have cut out the scoop from the front and from the back of the top end of the lower section, you will need to bevel the inside edges as covered in the last set of photos above. Then you will be ready to bell out the top "ears" and the pipe itself enough to accept the upper piece. You will do this by heating up the entire area with the hot gun as with the upper piece and then once hot enough, simply press the rounded end of the other piece down into the socket and hold the ears against the upper piece as it cools so the ears are fairly snug against it so the socket isn't all floppy and loose. Then drill a pilot hole through each ear into the upper piece so the two are lined up. Now remove the top section and drill each ear out to a large enough hole so your #8 x 3/4" pan head screw slips through it without rubbing too tight. This way once the screw has been sent in to the upper piece to complete the socket, the lower section will swing effortlessly. 

   Go ahead and assemble the arms (each section of which is 11" long) and both legs at this time so once the chest has been assembled you can complete your skeleton with a couple of screws in each joint.

 
 

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