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ThE LynCHinG
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Here is a laundry list of what you will need to stuff in here
besides the air assembly;
(1) 110V
power strip w/ at least 6 outlets
(1)
Sound playback device
(1) Powered computer speaker
(1)
Event Control Timer
(1)
Variable PET Timer
(1)
Motion detector (OSH)
(1)
120 VAC D.P.D.T. Relay
(2)
9 volt DC transformer
(2) 6 volt DC transformer
Here is the same motion detector unit I show how to modify from a flood
light under the
Motion
Trigger pages. Once you have it wired up so it will send out a 110V
signal, you will cut the output leads short and solder them to the C and F
terminals of your 120VAC D.P.D.T. Relay. When power is then triggered to the
relay, there are little solenoid-driven points that are magnetically pulled
together, closing the circuit to some of the other terminals and opening the
others. The A and B arrows and the E and F arrows shows you where to connect up
to two separately triggered circuits. We decided to wire this prop that way in
an effort to eliminate "ghost" triggering of
our playback device that we experienced later in the project, however we learned
that it wouldn't fully isolate it, so we had to add a second timer to our prop,
just to run the voice. More on that later. The detector will be
mounted on the waist board front and center with a screw through the mounting
hole, through a shim and into the wood.
 This is a panorama of the completed guts of our spastic friend
 after
replacing 2 timers in search of one that would really make the actions of the
jerking believable, adding yet another event control timer to control just the
voice due to the ghost signaling we were getting, replacing the pressure
regulator, replacing both the powered
speakers for the large one at the top of the pictures and the replacement of 2
air rams. Oh yes Martha, this one's been really
 fun. But, now that the right
parts have been identified, at least you'll be good to go! One note here, the
second slip fitting had yet to be added to the compact muffler in this photo, so
ignore the little white goodie hooked to an air line at the bottom left of the
photos.
You will notice an arrow on the top left picture pointing to the foam-covered air
regulator knob. This is a special note that in an attempt to make this event *really quiet, we made a muffler to go over the knob where air can be heard
escaping after being triggered occasionally. Must be a regulator issue. Further,
you will notice the battery eliminators we used to run power to the speakers,
the Mimic Machine and both timers have been zip tied to the power strip to keep
them from shaking out of place during use. Everything else has been screwed
directly to the back and waist with #8 screws for a solid mount. Notice how the
air cylinder is mounted. We ran a 3/8" steel rod through the stomach pipes at
just the right height so that when fully deployed, the ram's plunger would move
the lever below the waist to the right distance (2 1/2") to cause his legs to jerk upward
in a realistic manner. To each side of the cylinder you see sections of 1/2"
conduit cut at the right length to space out the cylinder to remain perfectly
centered while operating. Then to mount the steel rod, we drilled the ends and
after slipping a washer over the end, attached a hitch pin for easy removal.
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