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ThE LynCHinG
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 A look now at our gallows once assembled. You will need;
(1) Handful
of 2" drywall screws
(8) 3" drywall screws
(1) 3/8" Cove router bit
(1) Bottle of woodworker's glue
(2) 3/8" cabinet levelers
(1) Air line, 3/16" O.D. vinyl, 20'
long
(1) Electrical cord, 16 gauge, 20'
long
And;
(4) Pressure treated 2 X 4s, 8'
longAnd;
Cut 2x4s into these sizes;
(Make sure you cut out as shown
below, as there is no scrap left
over at all)
(2) 24"
(A)(same board as (D)
(2) 20" (B)(same board as E)
(2) 89" (C)(same board as F)
(1) 48" (D)(same board as A)
(2) 28" (E)(same board as B)
(2) 7" (F)(same board as C)
The idea of the Lynching from the start was to have a gallows with a hanging
man on it with absolutely no apparent way to have air lines or electrical cords
running out to the hanging man, all the more elements to suspend disbelief. To
accomplish that we will need to run the air and electric lines inside the wood
of the gallows. In the photo above you will see the groove that has been routed
out of the center of the inside surfaces of the 2 X 4s that will give them
enough space to clear and not get crushed flat when the two pieces are screwed
together. Staple your line in place and then tape your cord to it every 12
inches or so to keep them together.
 Here's how you will want to mark where you will run your 3/8"
Cove bit in your router; in pieces A, mark a turnout where the lines will drop
out of the wood at about 5" before the very end where the guy will be
hanging from. Then mark all the way down the center and out the end of each.
Above is a shot of the bottom of pieces C. For these pieces, mark a turnout on
the back side of each 2 X 4 at 1 3/4 on center and then all the way to 1
3/4" away from the top end where you will mark a turnout on the OPPOSITE
side of the other turnout. This should match up perfectly with the two
cantilevered piece (A). Now set your router to just over 1/4" deep and make
two overlapping passes on each side of your marks so you will have a groove that
is about 1/2" to 5/8" wide and the same depth.
Once you have determined all your grooves match up with their mates, then
take one of your A pieces and pocket bore that to the top of the matching C
piece. Be sure to use plenty of woodworker's glue in the joint, as this will be
the strength of our cantilever.
Here you can see a tool you can buy or make yourself. This jig holds a
piece of wood at a particular angle to the drill bit so the board may be screwed
to another using either drywall screws or the special pocket bore screws shown
above which work with a square drive bit. The jig shown here is a Pock’it Jig
Kit you can order from a tool supply like
Woodcraft.
When making fine finish products
with a jig such as this, you also
need the special drill bit as well,
so your center hole and counter
sink are correct. For our project
you can just wing it with a #8
drill bit through the end of the A
piece and then come in behind that
for about 1/2" deep with a 3/8" bit
to countersink the screws. Also the
long square drive screw driver bit
is needed if you are using the
square drive pocket bore screws as
shown. Just be sure your joint is
on a perfect 90 degree angle and is
flat once assembled.
 Now you can lay on the mating pieces of both A and C and screw together
using 2" drywall screws. Don't worry that these pieces are not glued and
screwed at the joint like our first half was, since the strength of that one
joint along with the support of the angle pieces (B) will be more than enough to
support your dangling dead dude. You can see here that both of the braces were
screwed to the uprights and cantilever in different positions, just to
accentuate the rough nature a gallows might be thrown together like. Be sure you
leave enough air and electric line hanging down to reach your fittings on your
dummy's back before stapling the air line in place.
 You can see how simple the base of this is here. The 28" pieces are
separated with the uprights C and at the end with the 2 left over 7" pieces
from our 89" cuts. Be sure to get this joint at a perfect 90 degree angle
and use plenty of glue when screwing to the upright. For the rear stabilizer D,
you will want to use 3" drywall screws and
 plenty of glue once again. There
is a lot of side to side stress on this joint and if this isn't a beefy joint it
WILL come apart without braces like the top cantilever has.
Here is a nice touch. Since this covers so much ground with this 48"
wide footprint, I decided to use furniture levelers under the ends of stabilizer.
Notice the 3" x 1 1/2 oak block they are mounted in is 1/2" above the
bottom edge of the stabilizer to clear the thickness of the nylon glide. You
will need a 3/8" drill bit to drill your hole under this block to tap in
the threaded insert for this glide to screw in to. Then attach with a little
glue and a couple of screws. Now you can instantly spin one or the other down to
take up the slack from uneven concrete to keep this much more stable and from
rocking while in use.
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