SPECIAL NOTE; AS OF 9-14-01 THESE
ARCHIVES HAVE BEEN UPDATED WITH THE
MOST RECENT POSTS ON THIS INCLUDED
HERE FIRST WITH THE 1996 / 1997
POSTS LATER.
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR - GOOD
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 16:26:08
+0000
From: "Ron Tye"
Reply-To: chatlist
To: chatlist@WildRice.com Hi
Kids, I finaly got one of $8 FG
motors I
mensiond last week. Hooked it up
and ran it for 6 hours. It's strong
enough for
any thing but a heavy FG. I can
stop the motor by grabing the shaft
with a pair
of pliers (but it's not easy to
do). It's very quiet. It runs warm
(155 deg F.)
You have to add your own power
cord. The output shaft is round
with a small hole
drilled through it. The output
shaft does not stick up as high as
the top of the
motor. Side view of motor Please
view in a fixed-width font such as
Courier.
Motor Shaft +-------+ +--+ | | |0 |
| | | | | |
+------+--+-------+-------++ |
Gear box |
+--------------------------- 120
VAC, 60 Hz, .26 A. 9 RPM. Overall
size: 4-3/4" (W) x 2-3/8" (H) x
2-1/8" (D).Shaft size: 9/16"
(L) x 5/16" (dia.). MFG: MOLON
Manufacturer Part Number:
SGM-2508-2 MECI
Part Number: 420-9289 Price: $7.95
The company selling them is MECI
They have a
$4 handeling charge and (I believe)
a $20 minimum order They said they
have
about 125 of them http://www.meci.com
1-800-344-4465 Ron AKA Samurai
Haunter
Subject: Re: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR -
GOOD Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001
10:12:44 -0700
From: "Alden Pelayo"
Reply-To: chatlist
To: chatlist
References: 1 About how heavy
would be too heavy for it? -----
Original Message
----- From: Ron Tye
To:
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001
9:26 AM Subject: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR
- GOOD
> Hi Kids, > > I finaly got one of
$8 FG motors I mensiond last week.
Hooked it up and ran > it for 6
hours. > > It's strong enough for
any
thing but a heavy FG. I can stop
the motor by > grabing the shaft
with a
pair of pliers (but it's not easy
to do). > > It's very quiet. > >
It runs warm (155 deg F.) > > You
have to add your own power cord. >
> The output shaft is round with a
small hole drilled through it. The
output
> shaft does not stick up as high
as the top of the motor. > > Side
view of motor > > Please view in a
fixed-width > font such as Courier.
> > Motor > Shaft +-------+ > +--+
| | > |0 | | | > | | | |
> +------+--+-------+-------++ > |
Gear box | >
+--------------------------- > > >
120 VAC, 60 Hz, .26 A. 9 RPM.
Overall size: 4-3/4" (W) x 2-3/8"
(H) x 2-1/8" > (D).Shaft
size: 9/16" (L) x 5/16" (dia.). >
MFG: MOLON > Manufacturer Part
Number: SGM-2508-2 > MECI Part
Number: 420-9289 > Price: $7.95 > >
The company selling them is MECI >
They have a $4 handeling charge and
(I
believe) a $20 minimum order > They
said they have about 125 of them >
http://www.meci.com >
1-800-344-4465 > > > Ron > AKA
Samurai
Haunter > > > > > >
Subject: Re: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR -
GOOD Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001
17:15:03 +0000
From: "Ron Tye"
Reply-To: chatlist
To: chatlist@WildRice.com It
should handel any ghost made from
the
"standard" materials (cheese cloth,
wig head, coat hanger, laytex
hands, etc). Any ghostly looking
ghost (light, etherial, translosent,
floating)
should work just fine. Ron AKA
Samurai Haunter >From: "Alden
Pelayo"
>Reply-To: chatlist
>To: chatlist
>Subject: Re: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR -
GOOD >Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001
10:12:44
-0700 > >About how heavy would be
too heavy for it? > > >-----
Original Message ----- >From: Ron
Tye
>To:
>Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001
9:26 AM >Subject: Hall: $8 FG MOTOR
-
GOOD > > > > Hi Kids, > > > > I
finaly got one of $8 FG
motors I mensiond last week. Hooked
it up and >ran > > it for 6 hours.
> > > > It's strong enough for any
thing but a heavy FG. I can stop
the motor >by > > grabing the shaft
with a pair of pliers (but it's not
easy to do). > > > > It's very
quiet. > > > > It runs
warm (155 deg F.) > > > > You have
to add your own power cord. >
> > > The output shaft is round
with a small hole drilled through
it.
The >output > > shaft does not
stick up as high as the top of the
motor. > > > > Side view of motor >
> > > Please view in
a fixed-width > > font such as
Courier. > > > > Motor >
> Shaft +-------+ > > +--+ | | > >
|0 | | | > > | | | |
> > +------+--+-------+-------++ >
> | Gear box | > >
+--------------------------- > > >
> > > 120 VAC, 60 Hz, .26
A. 9 RPM. Overall size: 4-3/4" (W)
x 2-3/8" (H) x >2-1/8" >
> (D).Shaft size: 9/16" (L) x 5/16"
(dia.). > > MFG: MOLON
> > Manufacturer Part Number:
SGM-2508-2 > > MECI Part Number:
420-9289 > > Price: $7.95 > > > >
The company selling them is
MECI > > They have a $4 handeling
charge and (I believe) a $20
minimum
order > > They said they have about
125 of them > >
http://www.meci.com > >
1-800-344-4465 > > > > > > Ron
> > AKA Samurai Haunter > > > >
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx1996 /
1997xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject:
Floating Ghost Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997
12:48:03 -0800 From: Death Lord
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com 'Ween
List
--HELP--. I sent this post out a
couple of days ago, but fear Doug
Ferguson is
no longer with us. I mean with the
list! Perhaps he is, but just not
responding.
So, in light of this, I would
really appreciate any help from the
numerous
techno-minds out there. I am sure
that I'm not the only one on the
list that has
wanted to construct one of these,
and I would like to do the talking
version if
it isn't too far above my head. I'm
working on one of the Floating Ghosts. First off, let me send out
my praises To Doug for creating
this great
event. If it turns out as nice as I
think it will, the effect should be
major-haunt quality. I also
appreciate all the work he's gone
through to offer
these instructions to the list and
web at large. I have a few
questions, and
probably will have even more before
I get the thing finished. Please
understand
up front that I am still learning
the dynamic functioning of forks
and spoons at
this point, so my questions may
shock and amaze you. 1) Can you
suggest the best
place to locate the pullies for the
hands and head? 2)I decided I was a
moron
this morning while I was in Radio
Shark trying to buy the necessary
ingredients
for the LED eyes and such. Do you
have any further insights for the
electronically brain-dead? When I
asked the girl at the shark what
these items
were that were called out in the
instructions, she looked at me like
I had three
eyes. Of course, I DO have three
eyes, but she couldn't help me
anyway. Let's
say for brevity I wanted to make
the ghost version that talks. A)
Which type
trim pot should I get? (This is the
trim pot for the line into the
L.E.D. eyes.)
They offer two different ones in
10K ohms. (Probably more, the sales
girl was
even more of an idiot than I
usually am.) B) Would I use the
head-phones-out on
a boom box for the power to this?
If so how do I know its 8-ohm? And
is this an
idiotic question (for all I know,
all stereos and boom boxes are 8
ohm)? Perhaps
the question is best summed up as;
What do I best use as the amplifier
to this?
B-1)Which leads coming from the
boom box or amp should I use? C)
What does a
70v. speaker system transformer do?
And how can I identify whether I
need a 70v
or not? (This is in line between
the amp and the trim pot that runs
to the
L.E.D.eyes.)Or is this the only v
rating made? D) What type or size
of speaker
should be used for this, or does
that really matter much? E) Is this
a typo
where you call for a six-foot long
wire to be soldered to the short
lead and
then to the long lead of the other?
If not, why six feet long? Does
this have to
do with impedence? And what size
wire should be used? Solid or
multi-wire? f) On
the wild chance that I actually get
this entire setup working without
the help
of Nasa engineers, How do I get the
voice of the ghost to cue itself
back up for
the following event session?
Wil --
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces Death Lord
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Re: Floating Ghost
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 20:53:05
-0600 (CST) From: DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com I'm not
gone, I'm
just snowed doing other work! :-/
If anyone needs me, I'll offer my
phone number
to anyone who writes me OFF LIST.
I'm really sorry I haven't been
participating,
but I'm involved in a lot of non-halloween
related web stuff, like helping
folks
with pages and doing custom
graphics. I'll do my best to get
involved again
soon, but I may be unable to post
for several days at a time. A good
way to
reach me by e-mail is: orniske@aol.com
as I use AOL's flash during the day
to
get my mail automatically. I don't
check this account as often. -Doug
Subject:
Dayton Gear Motors VS Road Runner
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:32:20
-0700 From:
Death Lord
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com I
couldn't find
Doug Ferguson's address, (its on my
computer at work) so I'll post this
to the
group. I know many of you have made
the Floating Ghost of Doug's. He
recommends using a Dayton gear
motor that runs at precisely 6 RPM.
I need to
know if a motor that rates in at
4.5 times the horsepower as the
Dayton, but at
10 RPM would work as well. If this
is simply too fast, could I
rheostat (sp?)
this down safely? I found two of
these for only $20 each, so I got
them both.
I'm hoping they'll work. If any of
you has any information regarding
the Floating Ghost, I would be GRAVELY
appreciative for your input. i.e.
What luck have any
of you had using various motors?
Also, by using such a powerful
motor, would
the counter balance still be needed
for this? Thanks in advance.
Wil --
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Re: Dayton Gear Motors VS
Road Runner Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997
01:40:52 -0500 From: "John P.
Jeffries"
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com Wil,
Many motors
are rated at inch-ounces of torque.
(Correct me if I'm wrong here
Denny) But to
get an idea of the power of one
inch-ounce of torque: One
inch-ounce= 1 ounce 1
inch from the shaft. 4 in-ounce=
one ounce 4 inches from the shaft,
etc, etc.
Now that might not sound like much
until you find a motor with 25
inch-ounces of
torque. I have not built the FG,
but the RPM would seem more
important than the
torque. (Hence the counter weight
for "unearthly" movement.) >
Also, by using such a powerfull
motor, would >the counter balance
still be
needed for this? John
********************************* *
Mr.Scary Productions *
* http://www.mrscary.com * *
E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net * *
1-812-824-8935 * *
FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
*********************************
Subject: Re: Dayton Gear
Motors VS Road Runner Date: Sat, 12
Apr 1997 11:53:32 -0500 (CDT) From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com John wrote:
>I have not built the FG, but the
RPM
would seem more important than the
torque. It is in this case, yes.
The best
FG's run slowly...quite slowly. And
that counterweight is very
important. The
counterweight should be opposite
the heaviest thing on the FC rig,
whether it's
the ghost's head, or some other
flown object. In the case of a
ghost marionette,
the arms counterbalance each other.
If your motor labors, ans slows,
you're
going to be in trouble eventually,
because one spot on the final gear
is going
to wear prematurely, and the motor
will probably run hot. -Doug
Subject:
Re: Dayton Gear Motors VS Road
Runner Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997
11:27:17 -0700
From: Wil
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: >the
motor will probably run hot. > >
-Doug Then do you think that 10 rpm
is
too fast? I bought this from a
motor repair and rebuilder that
uses these type
motors for small tasks, and after
looking up the specs for the Dayton
for me, he
told me this was almost 5 times the
torque as the Dayton. He felt it
may be
possible to use a house light
dimmer switch to slow this somewhat
safely, since
it had this much power, but wasn't
positive how much life I'd get out
of it if I
needed it slower than 10 rpm. I
humbly cast mt questions at the
feet of the FG
creator for his immenent wisdom.
(Or any other techie that knows
about such
things.) -- X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces Death
Lord http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Re: Dayton Gear Motors VS
Road Runner Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997
19:49:49 -0700 From: Brian Rich
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
Organization: Santa Barbara Science
To:
chatlist@netcom.com References:
1 Death Lord wrote: [regarding the
Floating Ghost motor] >I need to know
if a motor that rates in at 4.5 >
times
the horsepower as the Dayton, but
at 10 RPM would work as well. A 10
RPM motor
would go through one arm-waving
cycle in 6 seconds, vs. a 10 second
cycle using
the Dayton motor. It doesn't seem
like much of a difference to me. (I
watched a
sweep-second hand on a clock while
trying to imagine the ghost).
Whether or not
the speed of the motor can be
reduced using a rheostat or other
type of
electronic speed control would
depend on what type of motor it is.
A good place
to buy surplus geared reduction
motors is C&H Sales in Glendale,
CA. --
Brian Wesley Rich
-------------------------------------------------
http://www.west.net/~science/
Subject: Re: L.E.D.s Date: Sat, 19
Apr 1997
17:20:55 -0700 From: Wil Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com References:
1 Lund wrote: > > Ref Wil's
question.
> be wired AC to DC as I was using
12 VDC batteries like crasy, works
great.
> > Larry Sorry I'm not following
too well. Did you use part of your
garage door motor or electrical on
your FG? I thought that the power
that runs
the lights for the eyes on the FG
was the radio frequency of the
voice sound
coming from the amp. If its not, I
feel really stupid. Of course, not
as stupid
as I would as if I blew up
everything I've scrounged up to
make my ghost over
the past five weeks! Thanks Larry.
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces Death Lord '97 Topic
Archives- http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Re: The First Semi-Annual
Southern California
Halloweenaholics Gettogether and
Creatathon Date: Mon, 28
Apr 1997 23:12:00 -0700 From: Death
Lord
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com Michael
Marcrum
wrote: You will know more than you
ever thought possible before > this
is
over. I hope you all have a great
gathering...the northern > meeting
was a
real starting point for some great
works ahead. > Kathy > the new kid
on
the crypt > mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com
Kathy, I have, to a great extent,
completed my Floating Ghost. The last
to do is painting the fabric and
face.
But the effect of this is
startling. So feminine and flowing.
Gives me the
creeps thinking the thing is
floating right now in the darkness
of my garage,
its so effective. The reason I
mention all this is obviously not
to convince you
to make one. I know that is in
store for you and a few others next
month during
your No.Cal. workshop. The reason
is to strongly suggest the sound
and lighted
eyes. If you need Radio Shark part
numbers and such, I can help. But
this is one
event that I think should be done
justice at all costs. This is a
major haunt
event if done right. Also, the
recommendations in the instructions
offer some
advice that I think I would choose
not to follow completely myself
though. Like
the throw of the crank arm itself.
I shortened it a bit after seeing
the rise
and fall from 14" to 12 1/2". The
recommended distance is between
14" and 18". You can play with it
yourself if you'd like, but if I
made another one, I'd probably go
with no more than 10" or 11". The
being floating up higher as it
moves is more imposing than when it
is lower and
closer to the floor. Not only this,
but by using a shorter crank you
can have a
longer robe, which gives your ghost
a much more "real" and elegant
look, since its not going so far
toward the floor. I did use a wig
form for the
face as suggested, (even though I
was planning on making this a
skeleton ghost
with a light-weight plastic face
mask.) which offers a startlingly
female face
to this that really compliments the
slow and gracefull movements. I'm
really
glad now that I did decide to try
the wig form. I've decided to
entirely scrapp
the idea of the skeleton effect
now. I have decided to recommend to
the Southern
California Halloweenaholics to make
one of these at the opening
meeting. I can't
be more sold on this project. I
will however recommend that those
choosing to
make one for themselves at the
meeting to do some preparatory work
before the
actual workshop. This baby takes
some real time to construct from
scratch, and I
am convinced that it could not be
done in six hours by someone that
has never
made one before. (Or anyone else
for that matter. At least, not like
the one I
made.) (I will be reiterating this
for the So. Cal.'aholics later.
This is only
in the event the No.Cal. group is
interested in a few tips.) The
things I would
recommend to be done in advance to
the workshop: 1) Make your wire
marionette.
The simple wire form of this lady
takes a surprising amount of time
to get it
right. And it has to be right to
even work. If the joints aren't
arranged
cleanly it can bind up. And even if
the skeleton winds up needing
corrective
surgery at the workshop, at least
the bulk of time to create its
armature
is already invested. I added
breasts to mine (okay ladies, let
me have it for
this distastefull comment) since I
don't care for the robe to just
hang straight
down from the thin wire shoulders.
This added depth to the torso. (In
fact you
can't even tell there were breasts
added at all, just depth. Which
means I
really HAVE to make them LARGER.
;~> ) 2) Attach the wig form to the
skeleton. Just cut the back half
off the head to lighten the weight
unless yours
will be seen from the sides. If you
decide to use the glue as
recommended,(Tacky) this needs to
be dry to mess with the skeleton
and the cords
attaching it to the crank. I ran
the coat-hanger wire entirely up to
the top of
the head to the cord for a secure
attachment. Half way up the back of
the head I
added an additional horizontal wire
to the main line going up, and
flattened it
out to each side of the head to run
screws through for attachment. I
chose to
use aggressive-thread drywall
screws through the wire and into
the now-flat back
of the head. This made it secure
instantly without waiting for glue
to dry, and
is much stronger and more secure.
3) Make sure your u-clamp is the
right one to
fit the shaft of the motor you have
chosen. This sounds like a small
point, yet
one that caused me two special
trips to the hardware store. If
folks choose to
use other than the Dayton gear
motor, the shafts can be differing
sizes so
rather than hope one size fits,
check this out in advance. This
would stop the
whole thing in its tracks. I chose
to use a used Merkle-Korff 1915-A
gear motor
I picked up for $20.00 at the local
electric motor repair shop. He said
he comes
across these pretty regularly and
had two at the time I went in, so I
picked
them both up. (He said that people
use these for Christmas displays.)
The speed
is 10 rpm instead of the suggested
6, but the ghost looks to travel at
a very
nice rate. The upside, besides
saving $50.00, is that the Merkle
has nearly
three times the power as the Dayton
motor, and is actually two motors
in one.
The one motor is for forward, and
the entirely separate drive is for
reverse. If
the one motor ever burns out, you
only need to plug in the other lead
and you
have a new motor. So far I haven't
added the counter-balance weight to
my ghost
at all, since it works fine without
it. After I play with it more, I
may decide
to add this later as a
life-extender. I also wouldn't
recommend using the
rotisserie (sp?) motor, since the
shaft will only fall out on the
ground once
inverted. Further notes; The sound
and lights can be added at any time
to this,
so if you didn't actually have time
to install this feature during the
workshop,
you may want to at least try to
solder one working model together
as an example
for everyone present to view. This
was the part that caused me many
hours of
research. To have had a working
example in front of me would have
saved me at
least three days. The marionette
cord; I tried the thin nylon line
just as
everyone would naturally use for
this. Thin, strong, tough. However.
It doesn't
work with 1/2" pullies. The crank
goes 'round, and as the line is
pulled
from one side of the pully to the
other, it slips right out of the
groove and
drops into the space between the
pully and the pully housing. It
gets caught and
tears itself up. What DOES work
though is parachute cord. This can
be purchased
for $6.00 for 100 feet at the local
Army surplus store in BLACK that is
invisible under Black Light, and
will probably still be like new
when Christ
returns. This stuff is the
definition of tough and the
diameter is perfect for
the 1/2" pully. Instead of tying a
knot in the cord at the ends I used
tie-wire to make a clean attachment
to fishing-line clips that normally
go to a
lure. This allows the ghost to be
removed for storage later. You will
find it
takes about 54" per line needed for
the marionette and 80" or so for
the counter-balance if the Dayton
motor is used, so figure 20 ft per
FG. The
Black Light; Recommended in the
intructions: 12". I suggest perhaps
even an
18" . The faint look that the 12"
light will give, I feel, may not
have quite the impact that the
larger one will. Of course, this
may be added
later on at anytime, the same as
the L.E.D. eyes and sound. There is
little
reason to risk transporting one of
these to and from the workshop just
to
install it there. The board;
Recommended in the instructions:
48" square.
Actually needed if the crank is 10"
to 14": 39" x 42" (which
allows plenty of room to attach the
blacklight to the front of the
board also.
The location of the motor is not
really needed at the center of a
48"
square board, but rather 15" from
the pully that controlls the head.
The
attachment I used that works
perfectly is the head pully
centered from each
side, 4" from the back of the
board. Measure 15" inches further
forward (19" overall from the back
of the board) for the center of the
motor. Then 10" further forward
(29" from the back) for the pullies
that controll the arms. These two
pullies are 1" in from the sides of
the
board, or 40" apart. So, since the
arm pullies aren't fully at the
front of
the board, you need not have all
the excess weight of the wood up
front. Allow
1" or so in front of the crank's
furtherst throw and attach your
black
light. I hope this wasn't a waste
of everyone's time. I wanted to
share what
I've learned the hard way, so
others wouldn't have to go through
the same. The
instructions so graciously shared
on the Fantasmechanics homepage (I
temporarily
do not have the URL for this but
can forward upon request) are very
in-depth
already on this project, and of the
highest caliber. Its just I felt
these may
be slight enhancements to an
already wonderfull set of plans. I
hope that you
all have a great time next month
and feel free to e mail me if you
have further
technical questions I may help
with.
Wil --
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces. The Death Lord
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject: Re: The First Semi-Annual
Southern California
Halloweenaholics Gettogether and
Creatathon Date: Tue, 29
Apr 1997 09:59:31 -0700 From: Wil
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2
Michael Marcrum wrote: > > Wil, >
thanks for all the notes and
details
of your building of the Crank >
Ghost. I will see what the others
think, but
I do like the idea of > having the
body and head set to go so that we
can
work on the mechanical > together.
> In our haunt we are planning on
using
the eyes...but not the voice. We >
have a wonderful tape of a
graveyard that
we use!! and the ghost would > not
be heard over it. > As for the
"Breasts" remark...You are right
that it would add more > volume to
the body!! I can't wait to start
playing with material and all > the
good
stuff. I was wondering what those
clear plastic masks that > people
wear over
their faces to distort them, makes
them look like > plastic
dolls..wonder if
that would work over the foam head
to give a > strange human look?? >
Thanks for the help. > Kathy > the
new kid on the crypt >
mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com Too late.
You asked a question and that means
an answer
now..... Since I did the clothing
and fluorescent painting last
night, perhaps I
can offer this. The gauze that is
recommended for the clothing is
right on the
money. I recommend doing this as
apposed to the bed sheets you see
in the pics
on the net. Once the fabric is hit
with even the very slightest amount
of
flourecent paint it causes the
fabric to become very visible.
Anything denser in
weave would spoil the apparitional
look of the ghost dramatically
IMHO. I took
two sheets of cheescloth used by
painters and sewed them together to
create one
large piece of fabric. Then I
simply draped this over the back of
the head and
body and fastened it to the wig
form with 2 little pieces of thin
wire bent into
staples. This sounds really simple,
but if you did this, you would see
that the
very nature of the lady demands
that the clothing be flowing and
unobstructed
for the dramatic travel it goes
through. You may be able to enhance
the
appearance in limited amount by
sewing an actual costume, but the
cheesecloth
drapes so effortlessly I think you
wouldn't be able to tell there was
anything
more than draping fabric. Here's
another thing that became apparent
while on the
line of speaking about the sewing
of the fabric; the joining of the
fabric
together creates a dense line that
is very noticeable under b-light,
distracting
from the overall effect. If you can
get a single, large sheet about the
size of
a king size bed sheet, that would
work beautifully. In Doug's
instructions he
recommends to do the fluorescent
painting of the apparition in the
dark under
black light. This is a must! What I
learned in 30 minutes under the
black light
with the paint is amazing. I
recommend to do your painting of
the wig form in
tiny sections at first to get the
effect of what is happening to the
face. I
liked what black paint did for me
for blood and definition on the
face far more
than flour. paint. As far as the
"plastic skin" mask, you may want
to
fool around with it. I thought all
along before making mine that I
would be
using a mask over the wigform for
the effect I wanted, but after 1/2
hour of
fiddling, I wouldn't cover up the
realistic look of the painted face.
This is
scary realistic when done right.
Just be carefull applying your
paint. All the
paint I used on my wig form ate
into the styrofoam like an acid.
But the effect
under the blacklight is enhanced by
this. I went for a semi-rotting
dead effect
on mine and the cancer-like effect
from the paint was perfect. One
more thing on
this. Doug says to use blue
fluorescent paint with the green in
a mix. Since I
couldn't find blue fluorescent
paint I played with white spray
paint and the
effect under the b-light was a
beautiful purple that lent itself
perfectly to
compliment the green. White, black
and fluorescent green is all that's
needed to
do it justice. Sorry to hear that
you're not planning the sound. The
effect she
gives while hovering is spooky. The
effect she gives while hovering and
also
going from black eyes to red
"talking" eyes with the voice
coming from
her could make the unsuspecting wet
their pants. With every word she
says, her
eyes rise to life and die. Its a
cold, death-like effect. I am going
to have
thunder rolling on non-stop loop
along with a "spooky halloween
sounds" cd at the same time, but
with her voice just audible over
all this,
I expect the effect to really add
to the mix a great deal. I might
just mention
one other upside to the sound, and
that is that the power source for
the eyes
and the choreography of the blink
is taken care of with the little
radio/cassette player that's
sending this message. My wife noted
that the
breasts I added to her skeleton
gave her a fullness about the upper
torso that
makes the thing much more real than
the FG examples shown with just the
coat
hanger only. Too bad that this is
all it offers. If you were to make
them more
prominent than the one I made has
you could give the apparition an
almost lusty
or sexy effect which would add even
more to the effect she gives. If I
make
another Floating Ghost for any reason
in the future, I'll make the
breasts
about 6" of portusion as apposed to
the approx. 4" this one has. The
reason I don't change this one now
is because I like my finished
product too
much to tear it apart and take any
chances with it! I am planning to
video tape
it for the JB Corn video swap
mentioned last night. I hope the
video camera can
capture in the low light setting
properly. Well, you asked! --
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces Death Lord '97 Topic
Archives- http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
(Note from the editor: Doug was
very helpfull in the construction
hints on this. He offered his home
number for
me, and walked me through the
smallest details. I thank Doug for
his wonderful
help and commend him for an event
that is much nicer in real life
than can be
justly described in print. - Death
Lord) Subject: Re: Blacklites Date:
Sun, 11
May 1997 15:34:07 -0400 (EDT) From:
Spookyfx@aol.com Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com In a message
dated 97-05-10
19:32:30 EDT, you write: << mention
all this because I use 150 pound
test
Kevlar thread under 30 (was 25 at
first) pounds of constant tension,
the longest
run between wheels is 80 feet if I
remember right. I've not been able
to find a
way to carry more than a pound
total with this system. I try to
keep my ghost at
11 to 12 oz. for best results. At
around 40 pounds line tension the
bicycle
wheel axles start to yield at the
threads. The >> Hi Denny Thanks, I
had
not thought of "glow" paint and
"absorbing" station’s
along the path! Great system! but I
am confused about the problem at 40
pounds.
I know there is a difference but
can you explain! Why would a bike
rim that can
hold 60 pounds (120 pound person
divide by two wheels) fail under
these
conditions? What do you mean the
threads failed? Maybe we are using
a different
attachment system as far as the
"bolt" and "bracket are
concerned? I have used a crude
tension test system to try the
brackets and the
wheel and I have not had a problem
so far! What is it I don’t know
about this?
I have not attached the ghost yet
as I am looking for the self
contained system
I mentioned. But please let me know
If I am about to destroy my work so
far...
What do you think? jerry
Subject: Re: Blacklites/Floating Ghost/boring Date: Sun,
11 May 1997 19:47:12 -0500 From:
milwiron@btprod.com Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com At 03:34 PM
5/11/97 -0400, you
wrote: >In a message dated 97-05-10
19:32:30 EDT, you write: >
><< mention all this because I use
150 pound test Kevlar thread under
30 >> (was 25 at first) pounds of
constant tension, the longest run
between wheels >> is 80 feet if I
remember right. I've not been able
to
find a way to carry >> more than a
pound total with this system. I try
to
keep my ghost at 11 to >> 12 oz.
for best results. At around 40
pounds
line tension the bicycle wheel >>
axles start to yield at the
threads.
>Hi Denny >Thanks, I had not
thought of "glow" paint and
"absorbing" station's along the
>path! Great system! but I am
confused about the problem at 40
pounds. >I know there is a
difference but
can you explain! >Why would a bike
rim >that can hold 60 pounds (120
pound
person divide by two wheels) >fail
under these conditions? On a
bicycle
you're holding both sides of the
axle, the axle is seeing only
shear. Try
holding an axle by one end only by
mounting it to the outside of one
of the
bicycle's forks, what kind of
forces is it seeing now besides
shear? Now try the
same experiment by extending the
axle 3 inches or so. >Maybe we are
using a
different attachment system as far
as the >"bolt" and "bracket
are concerned? Very possibly. I
mixed rear and front axles in my
system, rears
are usually much stronger. My
brackets are "L" unistrut bolted
into
"U" sections throughout, they'll
support a few hundred pounds
easily.
The axles are the weak link with
high tension. If you can support
both ends of
the axles, you can have much higher
line tension. In my system the
ghost travels
around each of the wheels so I can
support only one end. >I have used
a crude
tension test system to try the
brackets >and the wheel and I have
not had a
problem so far! If your line
tension will carry the weight of
your ghost and
your axles don't bend, you've got
it made. At 30 pounds line tension,
I also
experience what I would consider
premature line wear, requiring line
replacement
after 50% loss (eyeballed) in
various areas. I would guess my
running time to be
40 hours at 30 pounds tension and
80 hours at 25 pounds tension. 150
pound test,
.025 dia. Kevlar thread was the
best I could find. You may very
well have found
better thread to use. Just out of
curiosity, what is your actual
measured line
tension? Denny Subject: Re:
MOTORIZED pop up ghost Date: Sat,
17 May 1997
00:23:49 -0600 (CST) From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com I hope this
isn't too
obvious.... If you build a FG rig,
and include the FG in your scene,
the
rising and falling skull can be
operated by a 'take-off' line from
the
countweight pulley. It will take a
small amount of barnyard
engineering to
figure out how to do this for your
application, but you'll have two
effects for
the price of one. If you don't want
the FG in the scene with the
rising/falling
skull, locate the FG in a scene
separated by a backwall, and use
the motor
platform to run both effects. -Doug
F.\
Subject:
Re: FG Date: Mon, 19 May 1997
22:33:47 -0400 From: Silvia
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1
Thanks for the input on my FG idea,
admit it, it sounded cool! I was
thinking
of not having the head move but
that's part of the illusion. As far
as a flying
crank projector, I think that would
be a little tricky. I did mess a
little with
the crank arm. I started at about
20" but it seemed to strain the
motor a
little. I ended up at around 17" it
worked best for me. Next question!
I
wanted my FG to have an almost
white glow under black light. Can
anyone suggest
a good paint and source. I read how
people painted their houses with
woolite to
get a glow. Would it be possible to
soak my FG's frock in woolite for a
glow?
always thinking Chris Subject: Re:
FG Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:39:43
-0500
From: DJ
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2
Chris asked: > Would it be possible
to soak my FG's frock in woolite
for a
glow? We dipped our FG's frock in
liquid Tide detergent. It glowed a
very eerie
pale blue to bluish-white color. It
worked quite nicely. DJ, who really
will get
those pictures scanned and posted
someday Subject: Re: MOTORIZED pop
up ghost
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 10:11:09
-0400 From: John Wohlers
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com At 12:23
AM 5/17/97
-0600, you wrote: > >I hope this
isn't too obvious.... > >If you
build a FG rig, and include the FG
in your scene, the rising and
>falling
skull can be operated by a
'take-off' line from the
countweight >pulley. It
will take a small amount of
barnyard engineering to figure out
>how to do
this for your application, but
you'll have two effects for the
>price of one.
If you don't want the FG in the
scene with the rising/falling
>skull, locate
the FG in a scene separated by a
backwall, and use the motor
>platform to
run both effects. > This idea works
very well, I used it this past
halloween
to cause the candle in my
jack-o-lantern to float up and out
of the jack, only
to float back down a few seconds
later. The two effects were
seperated by a wall
and no-one suspected (at leaset
that I head) that the two effects
were at all
related. >-Doug F. Subject: Re: Job
stuff Date: Tue, 20 May 1997
09:39:12
-0700 From: Bob Andrews
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2 ,
3 , 4 , 5 Michael Marcrum wrote: >
> Hey Bob, > this has been a good
week for you. > 1. the new neighbor
likes Halloween > 2. you have a
running FG > 3. You have a JOB!! No
kidding, Kathy! > > Now if you
could do something about the other
group..you would be fine. > Have
you
planned how you are dressing your
ghost?? We are going to work > on
our
tonight and see if we can get it
dressed! > Kathy Mine is going to
be covered
in the whispy bridal veil material
of which I bought 60 yards. Lightly
basted in
blue and green fluorescent paint,
and slowly illuminated under a
black light
fixture. Mmmmmm, mmmmmmm! -- Bob
Andrews bandrews@inreach.com
http://www.anaserve.com/~BoBandrews
Subject: Re: FG Date: Wed, 21 May
1997
00:40:25 -0600 (CST) From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com Chris wrote:
>thinking of
trying to project an animated face
onto a moving FG. Gosh! Even a nut
like me
wouldn't try to synchronize a
projector to\ a moving marionette!
Gee...I'm
thinking on the fly here... Nahhh,
trust me, the flashing eyes are
enough. My
neighbors, who saw my minature
FG/Pepper's Ghost illusion, thought
the flashing
eyes with the words worked. I spoke
with a repesentative from
Gilderfluke (the
company Disney now buys animatronic
controllers from) at the IAAPA
show, and he
told me, in effect: Keep it simple.
Reduce moving parts to a minimum.
Suggestion
is worth as much as the actual
thing. To add a moving mouth to the
FG would
cost youu more than the effect is
worth, and frankly, it would reduce
the
mystery of the thing. In short: The
eyes have it. ;-) -Doug
Subject:
Re: FG Date: Wed, 21 May 1997
19:22:44 -0700 From:
mramius@dreamsys.com
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com IN>Chris
wrote:
IN>>thinking of trying to project
an animated face onto a moving FG.
IN>Gosh! Even a nut like me
wouldn't try to synchronize a
projector to\
IN>a moving marionette! Gee...I'm
thinking on the fly here...
IN>Nahhh,
trust me, the flashing eyes are
enough. My neighbors, who saw my
IN>minature
FG/Pepper's Ghost illusion, thought
the flashing eyes with the IN>words
worked. I spoke with a
repesentative from Gilderfluke (the
company IN>Disney
now buys animatronic controllers
from) at the IAAPA show, and he
IN>told me,
in effect: Keep it simple. Reduce
moving parts to a minimum.
IN>Suggestion is
worth as much as the actual thing.
IN>To add a moving mouth to the FG
would
cost youu more than the effect is
IN>worth, and frankly, it would
reduce the
mystery of the thing. IN>In short:
The eyes have it. ;-) IN>-Doug
I
agree with you, Doug... but if you
REALLY wanted to have an FG with a
face, is
it conceiveable(sp?) to have a
small projector on-board? perhaps
underneath....?
Marko [ Sent From: Dreamscape
Systems - dreamsys.com ] [
Location: Van Nuys, CA
- (818) 781-7529 ] Subject: Re:
Another FG question? Date: Wed, 21
May 1997
23:18:10 -0500 From:
beverlyc@telapex.com (BEVERLY
CLARK) Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
What if you put a black light in a
box so that no light would show.If
you then
cut a hole in the box and covered
the hole with a flat sheet of clear
plastic,spray paint 1/2 of the
plastic sheet black,and mount it on
a slow
turning motor,like the one used for
the FG,it might give the fading in
and out
look.Think of a clear record
turning on turntable or a color
wheel used to light
a xmas tree. If the box is placed
under the FG it should make the FG
materialize as the clear side of
the wheel makes a pass over the
hole. Think it
will work?- > From: Jason Christman
> To: chatlist@netcom.com >
Subject: Re: Another FG question? >
Date: Wednesday, May 21, 1997 9:33
PM > > >I was thinking of using all
black for my FG and covering it in
woolite or > >some other detergent
that would glow in BL. Has anyone
tried this? would > >fading in and
out
BL make the ghost materialize and d
materialize (?). > > > >Chris
> > > > > > > > > I dunno about the
woolite, but I
was thinking about doing this
myself, so > tell me if it looks
good :)
Anyway,... Blacklights take a few
seconds to > come on, so you can't
fade
them in and out...anybody ever
figured out a way > to make a FG
materialize...??? > > > Jason, the
ghoulie newbie Subject: Re:
Northern
Calif. meeting Date: Wed, 21 May
1997 21:31:10 -0700 From: JOE &
MICHELLE
BOLDT
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2 ,
3 , 4 wil@wilschock.com wrote: > >
> So for anyone in the southern
area
that is not signed up yet for the >
> meeting down there...DO IT!! It
really helps to get together and >
> exchange ideas. > > And
Wil...when you say needing supplies
is important...here are a few > >
things that some of us
forgot...screws, line, and camera
(that being me) >
> Kathy > > the new kid on the
crypt > > mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com
> > I didn't want to mention this
before hand, but I am going to make
sure
> all the perphirals are in place
for everyone, just in case. I buy
screws
> by the ten thousand and have
purchased enought fender washers
and >
miniture wire rings to make 30 FG.
I also have about 90 feet of cord >
left
over from mine. I am still
recomending that everyone pick
these > things up,
but keeping the things around just
in case the wrong sized > items are
brought along. I figured this would
be the case! > > Kathy, I forgot to
ask, what motors and crank lengths
did you decide to > use? Also, did
anyone
put together the color organ LED
eyes? One more > thing, if those
that built
the FG at your workshop built their
own > skeleton before arriving, how
did
they differ in size, looks, etc? >
> -- > Wil >
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X >
Rest In Pieces > Death Lord
> '97 chatlist Topic
Archives; >
http://www.deathlord.net >
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Hey Wil oops i mean Death Lord,
when i first thought of making a FG
i thought cool but after making it
i say
WAY COOL!!!!. I used a wooden dowel
about the thickness of my pinkey
and as wide
as my shoulders as the main suport
because i didn't want to take any
chances of
collapsing when i put the material
as the gown on and the weight of
the skull
and skeleton hands. When this ghost
starts to move i can sit and watch
it for
hours! Bob the mold man got the
Dayton brand motors mike marcrum
brought the
alluminium stock about 1 inch x 18
in lengh, we put a twist about two
inches
from one end and mounted it to the
motor shaft using u- clamps, the FG
turned
out so cool i'm going to have to
make another one. talk to you
later, Joe the
morbid one! Subject: Re: Another FG
question? Date: Wed, 21 May 1997
22:33:32
-0400 From: Jason Christman
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com >I was
thinking
of using all black for my FG and
covering it in woolite or >some
other
detergent that would glow in BL.
Has anyone tried this? would
>fading in and
out BL make the ghost materialize
and d materialize (?). > >Chris >
> > > I dunno about the woolite,
but I was thinking about doing this
myself, so tell me if it looks good
:) Anyway,... Blacklights take a
few seconds
to come on, so you can't fade them
in and out...anybody ever figured
out a way
to make a FG materialize...???
Jason, the ghoulie newbie Subject:
Re: Another
FG question? Date: Wed, 21 May 1997
23:00:17 -0600 (CST) From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com To:
chatlist@netcom.com >anybody
ever figured out a way to make a FG
materialize...??? Go to the
phanmech website and read in detail
about the Hotel
Lugosi. The shutter system I use is
a hinged flap that covers the
blacklight
gradually as it closes. It is motor
driven (guess which gearmotor ;-) )
and
there are limit switches to detect
opened and closed. The circuit and
mechaincal
diagcylinder are available on the
site. -Doug
Subject:
Re: FG Date: Wed, 21 May 1997
22:57:15 -0600 (CST) From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com >is it
conceiveable(sp?) to have a small
projector on-board? Yes... it
surely is, but
you'd really have to miniaturize
the unit, or the ghost might have
such a deep
and heavy head as to make things
impractical. Perhaps you might try
a
translucent face, with the
'projector' being a small, intense
light source
behind a thin metal gobo with slots
cut to project eyes and a mouth (or
a
negative of this.) Just a thought,
and don't use a hot light source.
;-) -Doug
Subject: Re: Another FG question?
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:37:38
-0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com At 11:18
PM 5/21/97
-0500, BEVERLY CLARK wrote: >What
if you put a black light in a box
so that
no light would show.If you >then
cut a hole in the box and covered
the hole
with a flat sheet of >clear
plastic,spray paint 1/2 of the
plastic sheet
black,and mount it on a >slow
turning motor,like the one used for
the FG,it
might give the fading >in and out
look...snip Off the top of my head
[which I
consider far better than the mouth
part], I'd wonder if: You could use
the SAME
motor as moves FG itself to obtain
this effect? Place a plastic
semi-circular
(180 deg.) window into the motor
mount base (above the ghost). Mount
a black
lite above this window and attach
to the crank arm a [minimum = 180
deg]
shutter. A larger [degree] shutter
would keep the ghost invisible
longer.
----------------------- Commenting
on making the ghost "black", and
painting it with UV glow material:
I've found with black lite it
usually looks
better to have a material glow from
within. I'd utilize the "glow
thru" effect. Subject: Re: Motor
for FG Date: Thu, 22 May 1997
08:05:49
-0700 From: Carl Cowley
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2 ,
3 , 4 , 5 I found the Dayton motor
(2Z806) in the Grainger catalog for
$40.90.
Are those of you who have built the
FG getting a better price for this
motor
somewhere else? Subject: Re: Motor
for FG Date: Thu, 22 May 1997
09:02:15 -0700
From: Bob Andrews
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2 ,
3 , 4 , 5 , 6 Carl Cowley wrote: >
> I found the Dayton motor (2Z806)
in
the Grainger catalog for $40.90. >
Are those of you who have built the
FG
getting a better price for this >
motor somewhere else? Carl, The
motors we
used were Dayton motors (2Z807)
which is 12 RPM instead of 6 RPM. I
work accross
the street from Graingers, but they
and every other Grainger within 100
miles
were out of the 6RPM motor. We paid
40.90 for them. (plus tax) -- Bob
Andrews
bandrews@inreach.com
http://www.anaserve.com/~BoBandrews
Subject: Re: Motor for
FG Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:48:52
-0700 From: Carl Cowley
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com
References: 1 , 2 ,
3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 Bob Andrews
wrote: > The motors we used were
Dayton motors
(2Z807) which is 12 RPM instead >
of 6 RPM. I work accross the street
from
Graingers, but they and every >
other Grainger within 100 miles
were out of
the 6RPM motor. We paid > 40.90 for
them. (plus tax) > -- > Bob Andrews
> bandrews@inreach.com >
http://www.anaserve.com/~BoBandrews
If you've
seen both, did you like the effect
of the 12 RPM motor better than the
6 RPM?
Thanks for you input on this. I
can't wait to build one these
gadgets!
Subject:
Re: Northern Calif. meeting Date:
Fri, 23 May 1997 08:16:33 -0700
(PDT) From:
Don Bertino
Reply-To: chatlist@netcom.com
To: chatlist@netcom.com On Wed,
21 May
1997, wil@wilschock.com wrote: > >
So for anyone in the southern area
that
is not signed up yet for the > >
meeting down there...DO IT!! It
really
helps to get together and > >
exchange ideas. > > And Wil...when
you
say needing supplies is
important...here are a few > >
things that some of
us forgot...screws, line, and
camera (that being me) > > I didn't
want to
mention this before hand, but I am
going to make sure > all the
perphirals
are in place for everyone, just in
case. I buy screws > by the ten
thousand
and have purchased enought fender
washers and > miniture wire rings
to make
30 FG. I also have about 90 feet of
cord > left over from mine. I am
still
recomending that everyone pick
these > things up, but keeping the
things
around just in case the wrong sized
> items are brought along. I
figured this
would be the case! The Grainger
motor in question need 4 1" 10/32
bolts and
washers (1/4") for mounting. That
motor needs 3/8" U-bolt. The
motor's
do not have cords so we cut off the
ends of some cheap extention cords
for that.
The pivot was made with 1 3/4" of
running threads (1/4"), four nuts,
one lock washer and five 1/4"
washers, besides the fender
washer/pivot. It
was lot's of fun! > Kathy, I forgot
to ask, what motors and crank
lengths did
you decide to > use? Also, did
anyone put together the color organ
LED eyes?
One more > thing, if those that
built the FG at your workshop built
their
own > skeleton before arriving, how
did they differ in size, looks,
etc? I'm
not Kathy but... Skeleton's should
be made before hand, or not. We
went with a
18 1/2" crank but additional holes
can be drilled and the pivot moved
for
individual taste. don
bertino@netcom.com
Subject:
Re: Books -Reply
Date:
Fri, 23 May 1997 13:25:32 -0700
From:
Michael Marcrum
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
> Dave "Hi. I'm Dave and I'm a
Techno-Dummy" Kiihne
> daveki@nebfef.com
>
Hi Dave,
Is this group hug time??? I will
remember you when I publish ;-)!
I have to say that I could not
really see the FG in my head. And
when
we arrived at Don's for the meeting
he had a tape. Well I was sold the
minute I saw on in real action. We
are even going to make some smaller
ones to run some bats!!
Kathy
the new kid on the crypt
mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com
Subject:
Re: Northern Calif. meeting
Date:
Fri, 23 May 1997 22:07:51 -0700
From:
JOE & MICHELLE BOLDT
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6
wil@wilschock.com wrote:
>
> > Hey Wil oops i mean Death Lord,
when i first thought of making a FG
i
> > thought cool but after making
it i say WAY COOL!!!!. I used a
wooden
> > dowel about the thickness of my
pinkey and as wide as my shoulders
as
> > the main suport because i
didn't want to take any chances of
collapsing
> > when i put the material as the
gown on and the weight of the skull
and
> > skeleton hands. When this ghost
starts to move i can sit and watch
it
> > for hours! Bob the mold man got
the Dayton brand motors mike
marcrum
> > brought the alluminium stock
about 1 inch x 18 in lengh, we put
a twist
> > about two inches from one end
and mounted it to the motor shaft
using u-
> > clamps, the FG turned out so
cool i'm going to have to make
another
> > one. talk to you later, Joe the
morbid one!
>
> That's exactly the response this
ghost got out of me too. I thought
it
> was a great event in theory, but
when I hooked up the sound and eyes
and
> got the fluorescent paint right,
she is astonishing. I don't plan to
> make another due to the limited
space, but I wish I had room for a
gagle
> of them fying together in the
same room. What a ghostly image
that would
> be. As far as the length of the
crank, I felt that the 13" crank
offered
> me a better effect for her than
the longer one. You may want to
> experiment with this yourself.
She doesn't fly so far down toward
the
> ground, therefore allowing a
longer robe. This gives her a
"real"
> life-sized appearance. And the
distance she flies is more than
enough at
> that.
>
> Using the Dayton motor, did you
all find it necessary to use the
counter
> weight such as Doug advises? And
if so, is this a nuisance? I used a
> different motor that doesn't
require this, but I realise not
everyone
> will be able to find the
Merkle-Korff. I need to be ready to
set up this
> counter weight at the workshop
June 22nd.
>
> --
> Wil
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> Rest In Pieces
> Death Lord
> '97 chatlist Topic
Archives;
> http://www.deathlord.net
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
We opted not to use a counter
weight and my skeleton flys
perfectly, we
just mounted the pully to the
skeletons head (which will be
hidden from
the gown) and tied the string to a
nail at the back of the
plywood. Joe, the morbid one!
Subject:
Radio Scatt
Date:
Sat, 14 Jun 1997 14:18:04 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
CC:
jeyster@juno.com,
104221.2540@compuserve.com,
jrbaas@loop.com
I have the part numbers for the
making the color-organ eyes that go
to
the Floating Ghost. First off, I
appologize for not having the trim
pot number, I guess the package got
lost!
Trim Pot---ask Doug Ferguson.
LED EYES (2) NO#276-041 T-1 3/4
size
Line Transformers (2) NO#32-1031B
70 VOLT 10 WATT
Connectors for
quick disconnect (1) NO#274-249a
THREE CONDUCTOR 1/8" PHONE JACK
(1) NO#274-286a TWO CONDUCTOR 1/8"
PHONE PLUG
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Elvira the Gorgeous FG :-)
Date:
Fri, 11 Jul 1997 23:03:40 -0400
(EDT)
From:
Orniske@aol.com
To:
wil@wilschock.com
Wil,
What a piece of work! Sorry this
took so long, but I've had over a
week of
computer
wierdness to settle. I was finally
able to view your site with all the
bells
and
whistles running, and it is quite
entertaining. Have you ever
considered
doing
a 'walk through' haunted attraction
on your site?
Elvira is a true winner! We simply
must see her in blacklight! If you
will
send me some video footage vis VHS
(first generation if possible,)
I'll
quicktime a short loop for you, and
perhaps you can add it to the site
(not
sure how much room you have.) Keep
the camera rock steady when
shooting her
in full motion. I can capture at 30
fps.
I've been away from the list for
over a week, but I'll try to be a
bit more
prersent
when possible. Be sure to mail me
at -> orniske@aol.com <- if you
need me in
a
hurry. I am away from the other
address for days at a time, lately.
Keep up the great work! I fully
expected embellishments to the FG.
Would
you
like your FG and Trauma photos
included in the book? Let me know.
Sincerely,
-Doug F.
Subject:
Re: Cheaper Motor for FG - analysis
Date:
Sat, 12 Jul 1997 09:55:44 -0700
From:
jeyster@juno.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
I picked up one of these motors
from C & H, thinking that it would
be
great for my FG, however, when I
hooked it up, it did not work. Now
I
don't know much about motors, but I
think this one need a capacitor? I
have noticed in looking at
different catalogs that some motors
use them.
This motor has four wires coming
out of it, a white, black, and two
blue
wires. Does anyone know what type
of capacitor to use, or what does
it
take to make this motor go?
As far as the original question of
if this motor would work, I would
have
to say yes, just make sure and use
the counterweight.
The reason I went with the Granger
motor, is that it worked right out
of
the box, and also cause it was new.
Since the one from C & H is used,
I'm not sure what it was used for,
or how long it was in service, so I
went with the new one.
If anyone can tell me how to get
the C & H one going, I would
appreciate
it, as I'm sure I will find a use
for it somewhere.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
Subject:
Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Sat, 12 Jul 1997 10:35:02 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Howdy Howdy Howdy,
Hooooo Hooooo. ;~D
I have redesigned the Floating Ghost.
Not HOW it works, but
rather how its constructed.
It all started when I was 9 yrs old
and I saw my first dead frog and
...... oh, wrong story.
After seeing the Larry Lund video I
have been trying to devise an
easy way to take a Flying Elvira
upstairs (not for that, sicko.;~> )
and
have listened to the posts on
making free-standing stands for her
(Christopher) and such, (the
problem being dragging a 4' square
sheet of
plywood upstairs and hanging a 50+
lb monster-contraption to the
ceiling
with construction eye bolts that
could also be used to pull an
engine
from a car) and in twilight sleep
this a.m. figured it out. Don't
laugh
if this has already been done,
since I never heard of it myself
and
therefore could not have known.
Here it is.
Instead of using a sheet of
plywood, just because you would
then have
options on where to put the
pullies, build the structure above
out of
flat stock steel or aluminum. I
plan to use approx. 1 1/4" wide
flat
alum. for mine. (Possibly wider if
the flex is too much ) Below you
will
find the ASCII drawing that should
make it somewhat clear.
<--ARM FLAT STOCK AND DISTANCE
40"-->
ARM PULLY BOLT/PIVOT ARM PULLY
/ / /
/ / /
OIIIIIIIIIIIII[ ]IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIO
I MOTOR FLAT STOCK
I TOTAL LENGTH 20"
O <--MOTOR
I
I 15 1/2" BETWEEN MOTOR AND HEAD
PULLY
I
O <--HEAD PULLY
NOTE; this would be usable for
crank lenghts of 14" or less. I
recommend no longer than 10" or 12"
myself.)
Entire upper structure should weigh
less than 4 lbs (more or less) and
would be supported with three
chains; one to each arm point where
pullies are located, one to the
head pully and another chain from
the
motor that would be attached to
same suspension chain as the head
chain.
Thus, three lightweight eyehooks in
the ceiling and no need for even
hitting studs if you prefer to use
molly bolts. (I will be finding
studs
myself, in an effort to keep the
damage to the ceiling near
invisible.)
After use, this baby folds up into
a "stick" and stores anywhere.
What do you think?
Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Sat, 12 Jul 1997 13:08:37 -0700
From:
jeyster@juno.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
On Sat, 12 Jul 1997 10:35:02 -0700
"wil@wilschock.com"
writes:
>Howdy Howdy Howdy,
>
> Hooooo Hooooo. ;~D
>
> I have redesigned the Floating Ghost. Not HOW it works, but
>rather how its constructed.
>
Wil, what a stroke of genius! I
like it. When I was first building
the
marionette/armature for my ghost, I
constructed a T shaped frame out of
some scrap 1x2, so that I could
test the movements of the joints. I
didn't have the motor or crank
attached, just the strings and
pulleys so
that I could pull on them from
below. I remember thinking that
this was
just a temporary, 2 bit solution
until I could get the plywood, so
that
it could be properly mounted just
like the instructions said. I spent
a
week framing the plywood with
1x4's, sanding, filling the cracks
and gaps
with wood putty. Then sanding it
again, course, medium, and fine. I
wanted it to be perfect. I stopped
when I read Bob Andrews post on
"It's
Halloween, Not Fine Furniture". I
even made that saying into a big
sign,
and posted it above my workbench as
a reminder for other projects.
Anyways, I painted it so that I
could get it mounted, and let me
tell
you, it was a major pain in the *ss
to get that sucker up. But with
this
method, I think that it would be a
breeze to put up and take down.
Oh and by the way, I finally
decided that 7 1/2" long crank for
my ghost
looks the best to me.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Sat, 12 Jul 1997 20:43:09 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2
jeyster@juno.com wrote:
>
> On Sat, 12 Jul 1997 10:35:02
-0700 "wil@wilschock.com"
> writes:
> >Howdy Howdy Howdy,
> >
> > Hooooo Hooooo. ;~D
> >
> > I have redesigned the Floating Ghost. Not HOW it works, but
> >rather how its constructed.
> >
>
> Wil, what a stroke of genius! I
like it.
> Oh and by the way, I finally
decided that 7 1/2" long crank for
my ghost
> looks the best to me.
>
> Jack "Jester" Eyster
> jeyster@juno.com
7 1/2", really. That short. Well,
like I was telling you, I thought
that
the next one I made would have a
shorter crank even yet than the 11
1/2"
or so this one has. (At least I
think it was 11 1/2") She just
moves so
much more gracefully with the
shorter distance. Not to mention
with far
less strain to the motor. You may
be able to use yours without the
counter balance weight now. Did you
try this?
Thanks for the good words. I was
really jazzed about this when I
came up
with it. I stayed in bed in
twilight sleep for an extra 30
minutes this
morning untill the actuall design
came to me. I was trying to get it
down from three pieces of steel to
two and finally did it. Looks
pretty
elementary now though.
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Sun, 13 Jul 1997 09:23:19 -0700
From:
jeyster@juno.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2
On Sat, 12 Jul 1997 20:43:09 -0700
"wil@wilschock.com"
writes:
>7 1/2", really. That short. Well,
like I was telling you, I thought
Yes 7 1/2" looks the best to me. At
this length, she is only rising and
falling 15", which to me makes her
look like she is just hovering.
>less strain to the motor. You may
be able to use yours without the
>counter balance weight now. Did
you try this?
No, I am still using the counter
balance due to the additional
weight I
have added. I used chicken wire to
give her body and arms some depth.
I
have also added a wig so as to give
her some hair, so with all this
additional weight, I still need the
counter balance. I made the counter
balance out of a coffee can so that
I could add and remove sand as
needed. You may be asking why did I
go the the trouble of adding the
wig
and chicken wire? It's because of
the wig head that I found for her.
This head had a plastic face mask
of a woman covering the front half
of
the styrofoam head piece, so I
wanted to make my ghost beautiful,
feminine if you will. I probably
would have made her more scary, or
gory
if I was using one of the typical
face-less heads
>down from three pieces of steel to
two and finally did it. Looks
>pretty
>elementary now though.
I have some angle iron, the kind
that has holes and slots in them
for
making your own shelving units, and
I think that this material would be
perfect. Let me know what you come
up with.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Sun, 13 Jul 1997 22:41:10 -0400
From:
Silvia
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
>
> Here it is.
>
> Instead of using a sheet of
plywood, just because you would
then have
>options on where to put the
pullies, build the structure above
out of
>flat stock steel or aluminum. I
plan to use approx. 1 1/4" wide
flat
>alum. for mine. (Possibly wider if
the flex is too much ) Below you
will
>find the ASCII drawing that should
make it somewhat clear.
>
>
>
>
><--ARM FLAT STOCK AND DISTANCE
40"-->
>
> ARM PULLY BOLT/PIVOT ARM PULLY
> / / /
> / / /
>OIIIIIIIIIIIII[ ]IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIO
> I MOTOR FLAT STOCK
> I TOTAL LENGTH 20"
> O <--MOTOR
> I
> I 15 1/2" BETWEEN MOTOR AND HEAD
PULLY
> I
> O <--HEAD PULLY
>
> NOTE; this would be usable for
crank lenghts of 14" or less. I
>recommend no longer than 10" or
12" myself.)
>
Sounds good Will I used a similar
setup on my PVC stand it really
does cut
down on weight.
Christopher
isolated looney
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Mon, 14 Jul 1997 21:28:22 -0500
From:
Dan.Oelke@rdxsunhost.aud.alcatel.com
(Daniel R. Oelke)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Good idea - I really like this more
portable Floating Ghost.
Why not use L-shapped aluminum
instead of flat stock?
You can probably get away with
smaller pieces and
have less flex. Note that you
should fold it all up, clamp
the pieces and then drill your
center pivot hole. This will
make sure that the vertical part of
your L-shapped pieces don't
create problems as you fold it up.
[...]
> Instead of using a sheet of
plywood, just because you would
then have
> options on where to put the
pullies, build the structure above
out of
> flat stock steel or aluminum. I
plan to use approx. 1 1/4" wide
flat
> alum. for mine. (Possibly wider
if the flex is too much ) Below you
will
> find the ASCII drawing that
should make it somewhat clear.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <--ARM FLAT STOCK AND DISTANCE
40"-->
>
> ARM PULLY BOLT/PIVOT ARM PULLY
> / / /
> / / /
> OIIIIIIIIIIIII[ ]IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIO
> I MOTOR FLAT STOCK
> I TOTAL LENGTH 20"
> O <--MOTOR
> I
> I 15 1/2" BETWEEN MOTOR AND HEAD
PULLY
> I
> O <--HEAD PULLY
>
[...]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Oelke - droelke@aud.alcatel.com
Alcatel Telecom, Richardson, TX
"I speak for the trees, for the
trees have no tongues"
- The Lorax by Dr. Suess
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Mon, 14 Jul 1997 20:39:15 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Daniel R. Oelke wrote:
>
> Good idea - I really like this
more portable Floating Ghost.
>
> Why not use L-shapped aluminum
instead of flat stock?
> You can probably get away with
smaller pieces and
> have less flex. Note that you
should fold it all up, clamp
> the pieces and then drill your
center pivot hole. This will
> make sure that the vertical part
of your L-shapped pieces don't
> create problems as you fold it
up.
> Dan Oelke
I can see what you're referring to
and think that would be a good
idea.
You're talking about facing the
angle the same way and using three
pieces so it will fully fold up.
Very nice. One step further yet. I
like
it.
Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Elvira becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Wed, 16 Jul 1997 23:42:20 -0600
(CST)
From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
I thought I ought to add my tow
cents' worth, as the designer of
the original.
;-)
Any means of simplifying the motor
platform of the FG is a big bonus!
The reason I suggested wood from
the get-go was that it is easier
for a
novice to deal with it. The metal
frame idea is a real plus, for
those
who can deal with constructing it.
Frankly, the basic idea of the FG
lends itself to any number of
applications,
and I am just waiting for someone
to suggest an application for a
dual-motor
rig (I have one in mind for use in
the book already.)
One other thing - the wood-base,
simple armature version proved
itself in
running kink-free for literally
thousands of hours in a store
window. That's
why I didn't include the fancy
alternatives that are possible in
the
basic instructions. Yes - the
display ran overnight in a store
window,
unattended, and never produced a
fire risk or bind-up failure! You
can
see why I recommend it - specified
Dayton gearmotor and all! :-)
Geez - it's late, and my 'dystypea'
is showing. 'tow' above should
read: 'two.'
Keep 'em flying!
-Doug F.
(use the 'orniske' address to get a
quicker response.)
Subject:
Re: FG animation
Date:
Fri, 01 Aug 1997 17:06:57 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Jim Kadel wrote:
>
>
>http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/elvira.htm
These are fairly
> exhaustive
> >plan addendums so its worth your
time to check it out.
>
> Wil,
>
> Thanks. Have of course checked
yours and the Archives for what
they
> contain.
> I was looking for a little
unpublished "expertise" from those
with
> experience.
>
> My idea:
> Use as a crank a plexiglass wheel
of 12" diameter (for short
"throw").
>
> The motor side to be an enclosed
wood box, inside painted flat
black.
> In addition to the motor a
fluorescent black light is
installed with a
> rectangular plastic window to let
the UV light pass downward thru the
> plexiglass crank, illuminating
the ghost.
>
> A sector (section) of the
plexiglass wheel (crank) will be
painted
> black to prevent UV light
passage.
>
> The idea is to have a FG that
appears and disappears as it moves.
>
> Jim
>
Really cool idea Jim. I think to
effect this though your wheel would
have to be bigger than 12" so that
your light could be further in
front
of the marionette, but then again
maybe not. I like it.
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: FG animation
Date:
Fri, 01 Aug 1997 17:29:09 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
>http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/elvira.htm
These are fairly exhaustive
>plan addendums so its worth your
time to check it out.
Wil,
Thanks. Have of course checked
yours and the Archives for what
they contain.
I was looking for a little
unpublished "expertise" from those
with experience.
My idea:
Use as a crank a plexiglass wheel
of 12" diameter (for short
"throw").
The motor side to be an enclosed
wood box, inside painted flat
black. In addition to the motor a
fluorescent black light is
installed with a rectangular
plastic window to
let the UV light pass downward thru
the plexiglass crank, illuminating
the ghost.
A sector (section) of the
plexiglass wheel (crank) will be
painted black to prevent UV light
passage.
The idea is to have a FG that
appears and disappears as it moves.
Jim
^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel
mailto:jimk@rica.net
Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^
Subject:
Re: FG animation
Date:
Wed, 6 Aug 1997 12:55:47 -0700
From:
jeyster@juno.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
On Fri, 01 Aug 1997 11:00:36 -0700
"wil@wilschock.com"
writes:
> Motor speed looks great from 6 to
10 RPM, we already know. Doug
>recommends 13" to 18" of crank
length I think. I recommend more
like
>10"
>or 11". I spoke to Jester about
this while he was in the process of
>making one and I think he said he
went shorter even yet after
>extensive
>playing with a crank arm that
started long but had a bunch of
holes
>drilled in it all up and down. All
he had to do was slip the gang bolt
>into each hole and watch her fly.
I'm sure he will let us know as
soon
Hi Wil and everyone else, sorry for
the delay in getting back on this
subject, I've been on Catalina
Island for the last 4 days
celebrating our
12th wedding aniversary. Needless
to say, I'm trying to catch-up on
400+
messages that came in while I was
away. Anywho, back to the subject
at
hand, I have my crank at 8 1/2
inches, which in turn gives my
ghost a
rise and fall of 17 inches. I found
that anything longer, didn't look
realistic to me. I did originally
make my crank 12 1/2 inches, and I
drilled holes every 1 inch so that
I could try different lengths.
Now I did come up with an ideal
that may look really cool with the
FG,
and that is placing a large
tombstone in front of her on the
ground, thus
making it appear that he/she/it is
rising from the grave. I think that
if I was to do this, I would want a
long crank arm, possibly 18 to 24
inches. I might just try this for
next year.
Hope this helps.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
Subject:
Re: Mrs. Lamar
Date:
Tue, 19 Aug 1997 22:50:33 -0700
From:
jeyster@juno.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
On Tue, 19 Aug 1997 23:41:17 -0400
Silvia writes:
>and was not happy with her
movement. My crank was about 13"
and this
>needs
Hi Christopher, I have the crank
for my FG at 7 1/2", and I feel
that
this looks the best to me.
>to be shortened. The movement of
the arms seems unatural to me. I
used
>the
>coat hanger set up as Doug
outlined, but the arms seem to just
wave in
>all
>different directions. Wil what
type of joints does Elvira have?
Maybe
How far apart are your arms? I have
mine 30" apart, and they are 27" in
front of the pulley that the head
is attached to. As far as the
joints
for the arms, I used the same
method as outlined in the
instructions, and
they seem to be fine.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
Subject:
Re: Mrs. Lamar
Date:
Tue, 19 Aug 1997 23:09:06 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Silvia wrote:
>
> Hi gang I wanted to thank
everyone for the sugestions on
lighting my grave
> yard.
> I have Mrs.Lamar (FG) together. I
turned her on for the first time
tonight
> and was not happy with her
movement. My crank was about 13"
and this needs
> to be shortened. The movement of
the arms seems unatural to me. I
used the
> coat hanger set up as Doug
outlined, but the arms seem to just
wave in all
> different directions. Wil what
type of joints does Elvira have?
Maybe I
> just need to adjust her a little
more. Please take a look at her.
>
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Lofts/9860/Mrsl.gif
> I also need to paint her so she
reacts to black light. I want her
to glow
> white or blue and I know Woolite
does this. Has anyone tried to
paint with
> this? Does is work like a paint
or just make a mess. Not sure if it
will
> stick to her head because it is
covered with a shinny coating.
> Also does the glow in the dark
spray paint glow in black light or
just by
> charging in regular light?
>
> Christopher
> isolated looney
Chris,
Your effort on Mrs. Lamar is really
nice. I know when you get her
makup on and painted you will be
really happy with her. (The makeup
will
be the fun part!) It almost looks
as though her upper arms are bound
by
her robe. These need to be
completely free. Otherwise I'm sure
you'll
experience a major jerky movement
pattern. I like how your shoulders
on
her are not too wide--this is a
common miscalculation. My skeleton
is
just short lengths of wire the same
as my human skeleton, with eyes
connecting the ends of each wire.
There are shoulders, upper arms and
lower arms as well as breasts. No
further body. The length of your
crank
in my humble opinion is far too
long. Shorten that to 11 or even 9
and I
think you'll see a hovering effect
that has a chilling realism. Also,
I
think judging from the picture,
your pullies are slightly too wide
above
her hands. What is the dimension
between these?
The fluorescent paints you are
talking about will not give you the
effect you want I believe. If you
are trying for a white or blue, the
only color I know you can use is
white. A light coat of white will
give
a blueish white and a little
heavier you have a beautiful
purple. I
really prefer white (for etherial)
and black (for blood) under the
black
lights for erie realism. But that's
just my opinion. The flouscent
paints are extremely brash
flourescence under the black light.
I did use
some green with good results, but
not a lot. Yellow, by the way,
looks
exactly the same to me as the green
does.
On the outisde chance you haven't
visited my Elvira pages, you may
want
to take a look. Too bad you're not
coming to the seminar next week.
You
could take a close look at mine and
Jester's FC skeletons.
Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Mr.Lamar
Date:
Fri, 29 Aug 1997 10:27:42 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Wil et other interested folksies,
As I consulted with Chris, I know
that the motors used were indeed
$7.95 and were purchased from: C &
H Sales Co. (800-325-9465)
The gear motor's stock # is
ACGM8853
Specs are: 120 vac 60 hz 0.12 amp 5
rpm 150 oz-in (max. torque)
I believe that the topic of this
motor was brought up a month or two
back and that others (sorry can't
remember who) confirmed that it
quite viable for use as a FG
motor. Because of the cost
difference between $40. vs $8, I'm
kinda surprised this didn't gain
more attention by ye olde frugal
types :>
Jim
======================= REF
=============================
At 11:58 PM 8/28/97 -0400, Chris
Silvia wrote:
>All the motors I used in Mr. Lamar
are those $7.95 jobs from I think
All >Electronics. This is the same
motor I used for my FG and it works
great at 5rpm.
^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel
mailto:jimk@rica.net
Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^
Subject:
Floating Ghost Motors for $8
Date:
Fri, 29 Aug 1997 11:08:05 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Jim Kadel wrote:
>
> Wil et other interested folksies,
>
> As I consulted with Chris, I know
that the motors used were indeed
> $7.95 and were purchased from: C
& H Sales Co. (800-325-9465)
> The gear motor's stock # is
ACGM8853
> Specs are: 120 vac 60 hz 0.12 amp
5 rpm 150 oz-in (max. torque)
>
> I believe that the topic of this
motor was brought up a month or two
> back and that others (sorry can't
remember who) confirmed that it
> quite viable for use as a FG
motor. Because of the cost
difference
> between $40. vs $8, I'm kinda
surprised this didn't gain more
> attention by ye olde frugal types
:>
>
> Jim
Jim,
This is really hot news for those
wanting to do a FG! What a boone. I
am reading about this motor now as
I type. This is a MOLON motor,
which
runs at 8 RPM without load and 5
RPM under @150 oz-in load. The only
potential problem I can see is if
it gets hot under the load of a
full
sized FG and burn up, and the 1/2"
long shaft.
Chris,
According to the pics on Mrs.
Lamar, it looks like this one is a
very
heavy FG. How does the motor fare
driving this much weight? Also,
what
length of crank arm are you using
to move it? Also, how did you mount
this so that 1/2" length shaft
would work for you? One more
question;
how loud / quiet does this run?(not
that it is that big of a deal, just
curious)
Am I jazzed. 5 RPM would likely be
an _excellent_ speed for these
things, especially with say a 7"
crank length. I'll be getting this
ordered immediately and posting the
info on C & H for everyone below.
Now I'll need to see how to use
these for the arm movements and
head
movements of robotic dummies! (This
would be a direct hint to Chris and
Jim.)
C and H Sales Company
P.O. Box 5356
Pasadena Ca. 91117-9988
(800) 325-9465
5 RPM MOLON AC 120 VAC Gearhead
Motor
Item Stock No#ACGM8853
Price $7.95
C and H minimum order $30.00,
orders blow this are charged $5.00
extra
for handling. Cash or credit card
orders only, no C.O.D.
Thanks Jim and Christopher for the
skinny on this!
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Floating Ghost Motors for $8
Date:
Fri, 29 Aug 1997 16:46:39 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Wil,
I don't think overheat is a
problem, check w Chris to be sure
as he has one
operating. The shaft length is no
problem with ye olde (feeling old
English today) shaft extender or
shaft coupling.
C & H has a coupling that fits the
5/16 inch shaft. Stock # CO8851
$3.49
Others carry shaft extenders for
this size shaft. Jameco carries
same for instance. They're cheaper
than couplings.
Jim
================ REF
>The only potential problem I can
see is if it gets hot under the
load of a full
>sized FG and burn up, and the 1/2"
long shaft.
=========================
^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel
mailto:jimk@rica.net
Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^
Subject:
Re: Floating Ghost Motors for $8
Date:
Fri, 29 Aug 1997 15:46:49 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Jim Kadel wrote:
>
> Wil,
>
> I don't think overheat is a
problem, check w Chris to be sure
as he
> has one
> operating. The shaft length is no
problem with ye olde (feeling old
> English today) shaft extender or
shaft coupling.
> C & H has a coupling that fits
the 5/16 inch shaft. Stock # CO8851
> $3.49
> Others carry shaft extenders for
this size shaft. Jameco carries
same
> for instance. They're cheaper
than couplings.
>
> Jim
Very good idea, that would do it
alright. I will make a note of the
coupler.
Jester just e mailed me that he has
one of these motors and it has to
be wired with a capacitor or
something, but he doesn't have one.
Can you
tell me about this, and whether we
could get one of the capacitors
easily? He plans to bring this up
to the seminar on Sunday and it
would
be nice to hook one up.
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
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'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
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Subject:
Elvira Becomes PORTABLE
Date:
Tue, 02 Sep 1997 16:44:49 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Howdy Howdy Howdy,
This is just a quick note before
posting the rundown on the seminar
(wow, get to that already
whydon'tcha?) to let you all in on
the latest
on the collapsable FG.
The idea was presented here on the
list in July by myself for using
aluminum framwork for Doug
Ferguson's Floating Ghost, listed
under
"Elvira Becomes Portable". So far
this has been a theory that would
recreate the ease of use of the FG,
should it really work out. Well,
Sunday the Portable Elvira came to
life before all and the thing does
work. Dwayne brought along a 4' x
4' sheet of ply to make a FG there,
using the spacing dimensions for
the pullies we had, along with a
dozen
other little things that make
building one far easier. Also,
Jester
brought along some angle iron with
hopes to make a version of the FG
using part of my theory as well.
(Wow, you should see his ghost he
brought up to show off. Very nice.)
Yet after seeing the Portable
Elvira
Floating Ghost, neither one decided
to make one out of these mediums.
Let
me fill you in.
By starting with a single piece of
1" angle aluminum 60" long, cut
three pieces 20". Then you will
need to round one end of all three
of
these, allowing for a pivot action.
Now set all three pieces one on top
of the other with the rounded ends
all lining up and drill one 1/4"
hole
down through them to allow you to
insert a 1/4" x 3/4" bolt through
and
spin a wing nut onto the threads.
/o\
/ I \
/ I \
/ I \
/ I \
I
Now all three pieces should spread
out like a fan to a three point
framework. (NOTE; This does not
work by folding one leg out from
the
left and one from the right untill
making the T shown below. To allow
it
to fully collapse you must fan out
the bottom two legs clear around to
make the ultimate T shape.
---------------o----------------
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
The piece pointing down represents
the very top of the three (as
stacked) and also the angle you
will attach the motor to 14" away
from
the back, or 6" from the front.
Simply attach the motor with two of
the
motor mounts, which is sufficient
for such light duty.
---------------o----------------
I
I
---
Motor--> I I ---------
--- ^
I I
I 14" ON CENTER
I ^
I ---------
Now simply attach the pullies to
the underneath side of the
framework,
one at each end of the three. Use
this with approximately a 7 to no
longer than an 8 inch crank, and
you have it. When you loosen one
wingnut the entire thing collapses
to the size of something you can
almost fit in a glove compartment
and weighs ounces more than just
the
motor itself.
I will be following this up with
actual photgraphs and instructions
on
how to make your own Portable
Elvira Floating Ghost in the future,
but in
the down and dirty fifty-something
days and counting from now to H, I
thought I'd get up at least this
much on it now. For the nuances of
making a FG, please go to my
website that covers making the more
stationary version at;
http://www.deathlord.net
and follow the link to Elvira the
Floating Ghost. Allow some time for
my
main page to load, as my site is
very graphic.
E me if I can help make this
cleared for you.
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
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'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
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Subject:
Re: 1000 Pardons
Date:
Sun, 7 Sep 1997 23:42:00 -0400
(EDT)
From:
Orniske@aol.com
To:
wil@wilschock.com
Wil,
I read your letter of September 5,
and I have to admit that I had
missed the
thread of posts that led to it. I
have been rather selective in my
reading
of
posts from chatlist lately, due
to limits on my time, and thus
wasn't
aware
that I had missed anything. After
backtracking, I am ready to reply.
First of all, I never had any
problems with your representation
of the FG.
You credited me in numerous places
on your site, and that's all anyone
could
ask.
I never expected to keep the
ownership of this effect to myself.
I
intended to share it, and have
others like yourself add to its
legacy.
Over a hundred versions have
already been built. I have watched
the
memos from new builders arrive on
the list since I introduced it over
a
year ago. And here's the thing - no
two of them are the same. Like a
magician performing the cups and
balls, no two imagineers do the FG
quite the same way.
Admittedly, I had a tinge of
jealousy when I first saw others
adapting it
freely, but within a few minutes, I
realized that this was a miniature
of the same emotion that a father
has when his daughter begins a life
of
her own with a stranger. She may be
his daughter, but she must also
have a life of her own if others
are to truly love her.
In the magic community, concerning
the of the origins of effects, it
is
simply expected that one who adds
to an effect not claim its origin
as
himself/herself. The innovator
merely signs his name, and offers
the original inventor a credit.
Effects like this aren't usually
patented
by small inventors like ourselves,
who lack the wherewithal to hire
lawyers
and professionals, and don't wish
to wait years to release the effect
to the
public.
I hold no patent on the device. In
fact, the mechanism for the FG may
be covered under another patent I
am unaware of. Thus, anyone who
wants
to sell this effect commercially
will have to do the patent searches
in
order to be legal. I simply don't
have the time to research it. All I
can say it that I did invent my
particular use for a turning crank
and
three offset lines. I am writing a
book about my methods, but this
does
not grant me manufacturing rights,
technically.
As a hobbyist, I love doing this
sort of 'folk invention' - and I
think
it's the best kind, and the most
fun. When I see others using it to
enrich
our favorite holiday, it makes me
proud. This is how you and I (and
others)
can help to elevate those simple,
folksy front yard displays into
something
really special. If the average
borderline Halloween decorator adds
only one
new effect a year, their little
haunt will grow slowly - until the
fever
_really_ hits, and they become
imagineers instead of mere prop
setters.
If you look at the phenomenal
growth of the list over the past
year, I think
you'll agree that it's working.
Keep it up, and you'll have your
wish
eventually.
---
I'd be happy if you'd add a link
back to my site from the Elvira
adaptation
of the FG, but I suspect there's
already one installed. You know
that I
have
a link to your site, as well. I
have no grief with anyone who
builds and
shares
their version of my mechanisms, and
I make no pretense that mine are
the best
versions, or the only ones worth
considering. I want to sell books,
too,
but it's not the primary reason I'm
here...
Ghouls just want to have fun. :-)
-Doug
Subject:
Re: Candelabra
Date:
Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:26:49 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Wil,
Is this $90 cost with a $40 motor
or the $8 motor?
Jim
========================= REF
=======================
At 10:37 AM 9/10/97 -0700, Wil
wrote regarding building of a FG:
>But I will state right now that I
could do the entire event from
start to finish in about two hours
(I would include
the other hour for the animatronic
and the
>fluorescent painting of it) at a
total cost of $90.00. This would
>include all hardware, frame,
animatronic, paint, blacklight and
motor and
>zip cord.
===================================
^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel
mailto:jimk@rica.net
Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^
Subject:
GearMotors
Date:
Wed, 10 Sep 1997 17:42:32 -0700
From:
Zombie
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Hey all,
Has anyone heard of or used a 6rpm
gearmotor from Cramer Company. I
found them listed at Digikey. They
are only $26.22. I have a pic with
specs
if anyone is interested.
Zombie
curtis@ridgenet.net
Subject:
$8 FG motor...revisited
Date:
Thu, 11 Sep 1997 22:04:42 -0500
From:
"Norm"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist
Got 3 of those $8 motors in today.
Also got some shaft couplings as
well.
what a bargain!
Jim Kadel sent me the .bmp for the
wire hookup of this motor, but I
have
one question. What type of fuse
should I use? Everything else is
pretty
much self explanatory...Jim???
anyone??? Bueller??
Wil, hurry up with the portable
Elvira stuff! Please post this on
your
site since Alabama is soooo far
away from California. Can't make
any of
your workshops. By the way, ever
though about a North American tour?
You
can visit all the list member
cities and make the world a happier
place.
Norm
batesy@datasync.com
Subject:
C&H 5rpm motor test
Date:
Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:49:34 EDT
From:
jeyster@juno.com (Jack Eyster)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
We were discussing the C&H motor on
the chat last night, and I plugged
mine in and ran it for 3 1/2 hrs,
without any load on it. The motor
seemed to run ok, and it appeared
to have the same amount of tork as
when
I first started it up. It didn't
seem to be any noisier than when I
first started it, to when I finally
shut it off. It did get extremely
hot after about 15 mins of running,
I couldn't even touch it. I would
highly advise using a desk top, or
some other type of fan with this
motor
for added cooling, and I would only
mount this motor on a metal type of
frame, like the portable version of
the FG that Wil has created. I
would not mount this on wood, or
use it in a small enclosed area.
I plan on hooking this motor up
again when I get home from work,
and
running it for about 6 hours with a
1 lb load on it, and I will report
on
how that goes.
Jack "Jester" Eyster
jeyster@juno.com
jeyster@gte.net
Subject:
Re: Color organ?
Date:
Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:14:25 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
> I was thinking of something a
little more (I don't
know...complex, more
> options, better, sturdier...)
than that tiny little thing they
list in the
> catalog.
> Maybe its not necessary... color
organs are another topic with which
I am
> woefully ignorant.
>
> Tim Branan
> branan@aramat.com
Correct me if I'm wrong, but
doesn't the LED eyes for the FG
Doug
Ferguson has posted use the same
basic setup as this? This may not
strain (dither) the decible level,
but it does work similar. Perhaps
this could be used in a simple but
effective thunder application.
Or not.
Wil
--
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Rest In Pieces.
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'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
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Subject:
Re: Color organ?
Date:
Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:14:15 -0400
(EDT)
From:
Orniske@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Wil wrote:
>Correct me if I'm wrong, but
doesn't the LED eyes for the FG
Doug
>Ferguson has posted use the same
basic setup as this?
It's certainly not mine originally.
It's just the oft-used notion of a
threshhold detector flashing a
light. Doing it with a color organ
(indirect
trigger) or a LED (via a direct
trigger, as I do in the FG head)
are just
two methods that
achieve similar results. (The color
organ adds an additional channel of
trigger,
to boot.)
Having two channels really adds to
the possibilities of controlling a
room's
show
cheaply. Consider this setup with
dual color organs and a stereo
cassette
deck
running a loop tape:
You'll need two synthesizers of
some kind, or four audio
oscillators to
program the setup. You'll use
one low and one high tone on each
of the
2 stereo channels available, and
each channel will run a separate
color
organ.
You'll have to modify your color
organ such that you can feed
line-level
audio into it, bypassing the
microphone. You will need to
experiment with the
tones to see what is needed to
activate the high-frequency sensing
circuitry
without triggering the
low-frequency side, and
vice-versa.
What's neat about this system is
that it's analog, and you can
program the
intensity of any lighting connected
to one of the 4 outputs simply
by changing the volume (amplitude)
of the tone feeding it.
Admittedly, programming is a little
bit of work. You have to feed all
four tones on the fly as you go,
since most all cassette decks
record both
tracks at once. This might best be
done by two people, one playing
each
keyboard, or each taking two
oscillators to control. Write the
time cues
down in advance, and rehearse the
sequence before recording the
tones.
If your computer has audio editing
capabilities, the task will
be much easier. On a computer
editor, simply open four tracks (2
to
output left, and 2 to output
right,) and use the software's tone
generation
feature to create appropriate
trigger tones at the time cue
points you
choose.
Afterward, simply runn this out to
a loop tape (or whatever.)
This would offer enough control to
do a major lighting change, and
offer
spot cues within a one-room show.
If you are lucky enough to have a
4-track
cassette system (the ones aimed at
home composers,) you can really get
fancy,
by having a double system, and 8
control lines.
Some of the earliest Disney
animatronics used a more
sophisticated tone
trigger
method called Frequency Shift
Keying (FSK,) then a relatively new
NASA
technology.
It was put to use in the Carousel
of Progress attraction, and used
sprocketed
magnetic tape for synchronization.
The imagineers could fit a larger
number
of cues per audio track, but the
basic principle was the same.
-Doug
Subject:
C&H Sales FG motor
Date:
Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:55:24 -0700
(PDT)
From:
Dave Bell
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Hey all:
I can't find my &*(%^* C&H Sales
catalog, and I can't find
the earlier postings that gave
their part number for that
5 RPM motor with capacitor!
Help?
Dave
Subject:
Re: C&H Sales FG motor
Date:
Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:09:53 -0700
From:
kmw
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Dave Bell wrote:
>
> Hey all:
>
> I can't find my &*(%^* C&H Sales
catalog, and I can't find
> the earlier postings that gave
their part number for that
> 5 RPM motor with capacitor!
>
> Help?
>
> Dave
#ACGM8853 - 5RPM MOLON MOTOR -
$7.95 ea.
#CO8851 - 5/16" SHAFT COUPLER -
$3.49 ea.
--
°Sorceress°
§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§
There is Magick all around us!
¤¤¤
For everthing that happens,
there is a purpose.
The wise will seek that purpose.
§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§¤§
Subject:
Portable Elvira
Date:
Wed, 24 Sep 1997 16:31:58 -0700
From:
Zombie
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Anthony,
I need more info on the Dayton
motor you used for your Portable
Elvira
you built with Wil last weekend. He
told us on the chat that he thought
is
was a Dayton 27807C that you paid
$28 for. The closest I could find
Grainger's online catalog was a
2Z807 12rpm ac gearmotor. It
wholesales for
$40.90. Would they be one in the
same? Any additional info would be
helpful as I am ready to buy the 12
rpm motor you used. I'm building my
portable FG this weekend and need a
motor!!
Thanks in advance,
Zombie
curtis@ridgenet.net
Subject:
Re: Portable Elvira
Date:
Mon, 29 Sep 1997 02:03:53 -0400
(EDT)
From:
AS69911@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Very quiet. I cannot compair to
others because this it the only one
I use.
Wil should be able to give you his
opinion. He has another model, and
he
heard mine. I think you would find
the dayton perfect for the Portable
Ghost.
Subject:
Re: Portable Elvira
Date:
Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:06:01 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
> > has 12 rpm, and 25.7 torque. It
worked very well at wil's house
last
> > weekend. I purchased the motor
at "graingers". I got a really good
> price at
> > the time, I think about $30.00
> >
> > Anthony.
> > as69911@aol.com
>
> How loud is this motor?
>
> Steven
> stevendelacy@thegrid.net
Its quiet. Of the motors I've seen,
this one has the great features of
having plenty of power to work
without the counter weight, which
means
that the portable FG, or the FG
Lite (someone offered this last
Tues.
on chat). The portable, or Lite
doesn't lend itself to the fourth
pully
since the motor and head pully are
line of sight. The motor also stays
really cool under full load. So
while it is 12 RPM, and a bit
slower
would be a bit better, the speed it
moves at is very attractive, and
the
Lite version is worth the sacrifice
times two.
Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
Re: Sunday at wil's house.
Date:
Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:13:29 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
AS69911@aol.com wrote:
>
> Wil, I want again thank you very
much for the help in building the
"elvira".
> She is unbelievable. For those on
the list that do not know Wil had
me over
> this last sunday. We took a trip
to the flea market where wil
purchased a
> nice chandelier. We then had a
nice breakfast. It was then time
for the
> grand tour at Wil's house. I was
amazed at everything Wil had made.
He is
> truly remarkable. His "elvira"
Grand entrance, TCT and Coffin
coronary are a
> must see to appeciate sights.
>
> Wil after giving me the tour,
directed (actually built) another
"elvira". It
> looks just as great at the
original. The portable "elvira" is
just that.
> After building the item, and
breaking it down it fits almost
anywhere.
>
> Thank You again Wil I had a great
time and learned alot. Hope to see
you
> again soon when I go back and see
the relatives. (don't forget about
the
> halloween party)
You're welcome Anthony. I had a
good time as well and was excited
to
see the second generation portable
or FG Lite. The quieter motor, the
marionette with larger breasts for
more dimension, the 1" angle
alumuminum.... I learned a LOT. I
am glad we did it. Be sure to pass
on
what you saw, as others are having
a hard time envisioning the
portable
version that makes what was once 40
pounds into just under 5. I hope to
have some pics up on her within two
weeks. A savvy guy or ghoul could
still make her before H.
Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
RE: Sunday at wil's house.
Date:
Tue, 30 Sep 1997 11:51:14 -0400
From:
Lisa Meinders - IA
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
"'chatlist@netcom.com'"
She's beautiful!!!! I had built my
FG with a skulls face with LED
eyes, but I totally like the look
of the wig foam head painted. Great
Job!
Vamp
v---v
>----------
>From:
AS69911@aol.com[SMTP:AS69911@aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 1997
1:24 AM
>To: chatlist@netcom.com
>Subject: Re: Sunday at wil's
house.
>
>Wil's web site for the "elvira"
http://www.deathlord.net
>
Subject:
Re: Sunday at wil's house.
Date:
Tue, 30 Sep 1997 10:47:47 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
Lisa Meinders - IA wrote:
>
> She's beautiful!!!! I had built
my FG with a skulls face with LED
> eyes, but I totally like the look
of the wig foam head painted. Great
> Job!
>
> Vamp
> v---v
>
> >----------
> >From:
AS69911@aol.com[SMTP:AS69911@aol.com]
> >Sent: Tuesday, September 30,
1997 1:24 AM
> >To: chatlist@netcom.com
> >Subject: Re: Sunday at wil's
house.
> >
> >Wil's web site for the "elvira"
http://www.deathlord.net
> >
Thank you. Gosh. I like her too. In
fact I hate to put her up. Hanging
around in the garage just spruces
up the place don't cha know.
Speaking of Elvira. Does anyone
know where I can get an Elvira
latex
mask to make a dummy out of? I was
thinking of putting one of those
huge
tits chests on the dummy, a nice
witches dress and then tie her up
to a
stake. Maybe some flames licking up
from below using a box fan and
colored plastic flames lighted with
red and yellow spots. I also have a
christmas tree motorized stand that
would work perfectly to stick the
stake in and then the whole thing
could slowly turn as she burns
alive....
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
FG Motor
Date:
Tue, 30 Sep 1997 16:58:51 EDT
From:
dwmcloda@MIT.EDU
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Is there an easy way to adapt
a 36 rpm gear motor to an FG?
_______________________________________________
David McLoda Massachusetts
Institute of Technology
530 Beacon St. Phi Kappa Sigma
Boston, MA 02215
http://web.mit.edu/dwmcloda/www/
(617) 536-3683
dwmcloda@mit.edu
_________________________________________________
Subject:
Re: FG Motor
Date:
Tue, 30 Sep 1997 18:32:37 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
David,
Perhaps a lamp dimmer could slow it
to something reasonable?
Otherwise, a pulley system with a
3:1 or 4:1 speed reduction ratio
would work.
Jim
================== REF
At 04:58 PM 9/30/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Is there an easy way to adapt
>a 36 rpm gear motor to an FG?
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>David McLoda Massachusetts
Institute of Technology
>530 Beacon St. Phi Kappa Sigma
>Boston, MA 02215
http://web.mit.edu/dwmcloda/www/
>(617) 536-3683
>dwmcloda@mit.edu
==============
^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel
mailto:jimk@rica.net
Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^
Subject:
Re: FG Motor
Date:
Tue, 30 Sep 1997 17:01:21 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1
dwmcloda@MIT.EDU wrote:
>
> Is there an easy way to adapt
> a 36 rpm gear motor to an FG?
>
> David McLoda
No problem. Just fit your Floating Ghost with jogging shoes.
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Subject:
FG idea
Date:
Mon, 06 Oct 1997 01:42:30
From:
grey@ionet.net (Michael DuBois)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
None (Michael DuBois, Phoenix, AZ
USA)
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Has anyone tried to give a Crank
Ghost a glowing heart, like the one
that the bride
has during the Haunted Mansion ride
at Disney Land ? Would it give off
too much red
light ? Too heavy ?
I'm a bad, bad boy... I video taped
a few of their (Disneys') rides
when I was there
a few years ago... Haunted
Mansion... Pirates of the
Caribbean...
No one said anything... (I didn't
use a light though) Makes for some
great inspiration
to give things that pe |
