***** T R A S H C A N T R A U M A *****

(c) by Carl Chetta 1996
 

   Carl Chetta owns and operates Mid-Island Appliance in Central Islip NY. I was looking for some used washing machine solenoids and called his store. The rest is history, when he found out I was interested in building stuff for Halloween, he got very excited. I met him and we became friends right away. When I told him I was going to run air thru the solenoids he became very interested. He always had a display of washing machines in front of his store for Halloween but had been using water to activate the special effects. Within a couple of days he came up with "Trash Can Trauma". . . . . Larry Lund

 
Pictures of the finished product http://www.easternanimatronics.com
Pictures of the Hamper Havoc http://www.deathlord.net/hamper.jpg by John P. Jeffries
Instructions by the Death Lord http://www.deathlord.net/trauma.htm

 

ARCHIVES;


Subject:
Re: Halloween Air Operated Scare Device
Date:
Sat, 15 Mar 1997 15:37:35 -0500
From:
Brer Bear
To:
Jim Kadel
References:
1
Subject:
Halloween Air Operated Scare Device
Date:
Sat, 15 Mar 1997 16:03:31 -0700
From:
Jim Kadel
To:
wil@wilschock.com


Wil,

you asked (among other things):

>Does anyone have a hand-drawen diagcylinder or
>photo of the air-operated "pop-up ghosts", "coffin-door-opener" and
>such?

In the way of a chatlist "welcoming present" to one such as yourself who
does, and continues to do the necessary preparation for a truly good scare.
I attach a mime encoded photo (called: skele2.jpg) which shows the guts
of a very simple air operated pop-up skeleton. I literally had to throw it
together last year in a hurry.

The skeleton ($50. - child size - 36" tall, but realistic) was mounted on the
piston rod of a bicycle pump. A box to hide the skeleton was constructed
with base and two sides of wood (this much seen in the photo). The top of
the box was cardboard because it needed to be light in weight as the
skeleton really bangs into it. The rest of the black box enclosure was
formed by wrapping black plastic around the exterior. 

The pop-up is accomplished by compressed air thru a electric solenoid valve
operated by mat switch (I find this easier to manage electrically speaking
than the motion detectors that everyone is hot about - more about this, if
U R interested?)

I hope you can view this image with no problems and that in some way helps
with what you're doing.

Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net) 3/15/97





Part 1.2

Name:
SKELE2..jpg
Type:
JPEG Image (image/jpeg)
Encoding:
base64

Jim Kadel wrote:
>
> Wil,
>
> you asked (among other things):
>
> >Does anyone have a hand-drawen diagcylinder or
> >photo of the air-operated "pop-up ghosts", "coffin-door-opener" and
> >such?
>
> In the way of a chatlist "welcoming present" to one such as yourself who
> does, and continues to do the necessary preparation for a truly good scare.
> I attach a mime encoded photo (called: skele2.jpg) which shows the guts
> of a very simple air operated pop-up skeleton. I literally had to throw it
> together last year in a hurry.
>
> The skeleton ($50. - child size - 36" tall, but realistic) was mounted on the
> piston rod of a bicycle pump. A box to hide the skeleton was constructed
> with base and two sides of wood (this much seen in the photo). The top of
> the box was cardboard because it needed to be light in weight as the
> skeleton really bangs into it. The rest of the black box enclosure was
> formed by wrapping black plastic around the exterior.
>
> The pop-up is accomplished by compressed air thru a electric solenoid valve
> operated by mat switch (I find this easier to manage electrically speaking
> than the motion detectors that everyone is hot about - more about this, if
> U R interested?)
>
> I hope you can view this image with no problems and that in some way helps
> with what you're doing.
>
> Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net) 3/15/97
>

Subject:
Thank you...
Date:
Thu, 20 Mar 1997 10:32:23 -0600 (CST)
From:
DWFWW@jazz.ucc.uno.edu
To:
wil@wilschock.com


Wil,

You wrote (to the chatlist list):

>Or the excellent Floating Ghost, which is also extemely well
>detailed at http://members.aol.com/phanmech/files.html

Thank you very much for the plug! ;-)

I was the person who put the doucmentation together for the TCT,
from photos that Carl and Larry took of the prototype.
(I did the page layout, in other words.)

120VAC Is 120 Volts, A.C., but you probably have mail to that effect
already. 

You can use the 555-timer to be found on phanmech as an interval timer.
It's in the section on Hotel Lugosi. Using this with an appropriate
relay, you can trigger anything.

-Doug

Subject:
Re: Placeing Orders {Advertisement from me} -> X10 Stuff
Date:
Fri, 21 Mar 1997 09:06:38 EST
From:
sao@mit.edu
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


(Replying to the list, because I think this is of general interest...)

Spookyfx@aol.com, Fri, 21 Mar 1997 06:14:52 -0500 (EST):
>Wow! I need to ask you a few questions!
[Questions 1,2,3,4,5,7 deleted...]

I'm a big X10 fan, and use it all around my house to control lights,
fans, radios, etcetra. Technically, it transmitts its control codes
at the zero crossings of the 60hz cycle in your house current....And since
each control code is something like 24 bits, this limits it to roughly
two actions per second. (Order of magnitude approximations here)
Each appliance plugs into a little beige box set to listen for control
commands on a specific house and module setting.

You can get controller boards for just about any sort of computer and
run X10 modules under automatic control. Or, as I do, just use little
control pads scattered around the house in place of light switches.

Instead of filling the list with lots of detailed answers, which may
not be of interest to all readers, and are thus more appropriate for
private email, let me just refer you to the "Home Automation Systems"
online catalog at:

http://www.techmall.com/smarthome/index.html

Also, they have a section on the basics of X10 at:

http://www.techmall.com/smarthome/aboutx10.html

Andy Oakland
sao@mit.edu
http://mit.edu/sao/www/
       

Subject:
Re: X10 Stuff
Date:
Fri, 21 Mar 1997 11:43:21 -0500
From:
Death Lord
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


sao@mit.edu wrote:
>
> wil@wilschock.com, Fri, 21 Mar 1997 09:56:54 -0500:
> [~30 lines of included text deleted]
> >I take it that software interface for computer use is in it's infancy on
> >the x10? On the first URL reference you give, the price for a software
> >package is $589.95. Is this right?
>
> Actually, X10 control boards for computers have been around since at
> least the days of the 286. A friend of mine just purchased one, new,
> for his Pentium, for $35.
>
> I'm not sure where you saw the $589.95 price. Look at
> http://www.techmall.com/smarthome/1610.html (Which is accessable off
> the "computer control" link from the first page I sent to the list)
> and you'll find packages including software for Windows 95 starting at $50.
> Voice recognition is an extra $150 or so.
>
> Andy Oakland
> sao@mit.edu
> http://mit.edu/sao/www/
>
>
>
Cool. Thanks for the info Andy!

--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
X10 Stuff
Date:
Fri, 21 Mar 1997 13:50:04 EST
From:
sao@mit.edu
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


wil@wilschock.com, Fri, 21 Mar 1997 09:56:54 -0500:
[~30 lines of included text deleted]
>I take it that software interface for computer use is in it's infancy on
>the x10? On the first URL reference you give, the price for a software
>package is $589.95. Is this right?

Actually, X10 control boards for computers have been around since at
least the days of the 286. A friend of mine just purchased one, new,
for his Pentium, for $35.

I'm not sure where you saw the $589.95 price. Look at
http://www.techmall.com/smarthome/1610.html (Which is accessable off
the "computer control" link from the first page I sent to the list)
and you'll find packages including software for Windows 95 starting at $50.
Voice recognition is an extra $150 or so.

Andy Oakland
sao@mit.edu
http://mit.edu/sao/www/

 

 

Hi. Thanks for your response. Do you send air into the bike pump by
attaching to the hose and shooting it in that way? I don't understand
exactly how you used the pump, but it looks like a really good idea for
a piston mechanism. It makes me think about the other bicycle pumps
available that are foot operated and small ones that attach to bikes
themselves. This would eliminate the need to make one from pvc pipe it
looks like. Very exciting.

You said that you use the floor mat instead. How do you keep the person
from stepping on the mat over and over and over? And where can you find
these for a decent price? And why not motion detected attached to a
momentary switch? I haven't done any of these things myself, and decided
not to reinvent the wheel myself on every one of my ideas. I really
appreciate your input.

Also, where did you find the skeleton? And you said compressed air. Do
you not use an air compressor? If not, how big is your tank, and how
long will it last in constant usage with this one trick by halloweenies?

You said you used an electric solenoid for this. Where do you buy these
and what do they cost? And how are they hook up, in-line?

Also, what is the best halloween catalog you've found? Do you have any
other neat tricks for halloween you have used with good luck? I am
interested in scaring the shit out of the adults that walk thier little
kids up to my door. This is the challenge. I have no problem scaring the
little ones, but so far I find the adults difficult and plan to overcome
this this year.

Thanks Again.

Wil

Subject:
Re: Haunt Master Products, Inc.
Date:
Fri, 21 Mar 1997 12:14:05 -0500
From:
Death Lord
To:
jimk@rica.net
References:
1


Jim Kadel wrote:

> Today an ECT must be constructed from commercially available timers, it
> cost me $73.00 to put one together last year. For any haunt not controlled
> totally by computer, the ECT is a must. It's main purpose is to prevent
> the inadvertent or willful re-firing of a scare effect (event) by a past
> victim/s. This as you know can ruin the effect, by exposing it prematurely,
> to the next victim/s.
>
> At this point I'll mention that I'm starting a small Internet based
> business soon (will definitely announce it on this List), called:
>
> "Haunt Master Products, Inc"
>
> Products offered are special use HAUNT items. I am developing my own line
> of products that hopefully will be considered "needful things" by most of
> you,

> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
> Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)
>
> Haunt Master Products, Inc
> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

Jim, is the ECT you are reffering to a 555 unit?



Subject:
Re: Message for Jim Kadel
Date:
Fri, 21 Mar 1997 21:33:58 -0800
From:
Brer Bear
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
SFC
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


John Dolan wrote:
>
> On Wed, 19 Mar 1997, Lawrence H. Lund wrote:
>
> > At 05:22 PM 3/19/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >Also, the "Trash Can Trauma" listed the need for 120VAC line cord to
> > >connect the washing machine valve -- could anyone let me know what the
> > >hell a 120VAC is? I know I should know about this already, but I've been
> > >sleeping in my coffin for three hundred years and only just awoke.
> >
> >
> > 120VAC is 120 Volts Alternating Current, it is what you get when you plug a
> > toaster in.
> >
> >
> > Larry
>
> If may add to this for safety sake. Do not use "zip cord" or even "Romex"
> for your VAC source. Since a solenoid is not really meant to be semi-
> exposed, as it is in this application, you want to make sure that you have
> a grounded electrical source (zip cord isn't) that can also withstand some
> abuse (Romex can't). Use a 14/2 outdoor cord (2 insulated wires/1 bare
> ground) and connect a 3 prong ground plug to one end. Or better yet, if
> you have an extra outdoor type extension cord simply cut off the outlet
> end and wire this to your solenoid.
> JD
> jdolan@titan.iwu

That's a good idea. That would make the event even more self-contained.
Thanks for the advice.
Wil


 

Subject:
Re: Haunt Master Products, Inc.
Date:
Sat, 22 Mar 1997 11:16:49 -0500
From:
Death Lord
To:
Jim Kadel
References:
1


Jim Kadel wrote:
>
> Wil,
>
> You write:
> >Do you have any of these available for sale? Not yet.
>
> Perhaps it was a mistake to mention my new business plan since, I'm only in
> a product development stage, and won't be selling for at least a month
> (possibly two).
>
> I couldn't offer the ECT as it's described in the Archives unless I added a
> "builder's fee" to it. Now we'd be talking $95 - $100 bucks! Would you
> still be interested?
>
> The $73.00 (unfortunately) assumes that you either build it yourself or
> have a knowledgeable friend (who'd assemble it for nothing).
>
> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
> Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)
>
> Haunt Master Products, Inc.
> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

And you were talking about an even lower cost one made from the 556?
-- X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: Haunt Master Products, Inc.
Date:
Mon, 24 Mar 1997 11:11:12 -0500
From:
Death Lord
To:
Jim Kadel
References:
1


Jim Kadel wrote:
>
> Wil,
>
> I'll definately let you know when the ECT is ready for sale.
>
> NOW...I have a question for you.
>
> What software did you use to construct your Web page/s?
>
> Thanx,
>
> At 07:38 PM 3/24/97 -0800, you wrote:
> >Jim Kadel wrote:
> >>
> >> Wil,
> >> >And you were talking about an even lower cost one made from the 556?
> >>
> >> Yes, indeed, my goal would be to build and SELL it for less than half of
> >> the $73.00 cost of the discrete timer arrangement. However, you'd have to
> >> wait a bit, I'm planning for the chip version ECT to be ready for sale
> >> around the middle of summer.
> >>
> >> At 11:16 AM 3/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >> >Jim Kadel wrote:
> >
> >
> >Okay. Let me know when it's ready!
> >--
> >X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> > Rest In Pieces.
> >
> > The Death Lord
> >http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
> >X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> >
> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
> Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)
>
> Haunt Master Products, Inc.
> |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
 
Thanks. I look forward to getting the ect one way or the other. I am
already working on Trash Can Trauma, and am eager to get all the bugs
worked out in plenty of time to do a few more events! :~D

Just the good ol HTML writing from the brain cavity. I have'nt ever
found a "Home Page Helper" yet that I like, so I write all of it myself.

Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 04:12:23 -0500
From:
"John P. Jeffries"
To:
wil@wilschock.com


>Strobe. What a great idea. It never ceases to amaze me the level the
>h-list has taken these simple home events. With more time in this I
>suppose I'll start to think like this, I hope. I take these things very
>crudely in comparison. I will get an extra strobe light just for this
>event and put this over the top. Gawd, this thing must be a show stopper
>with sound, lights and sudden movement accompanied by a grabbing hand!
>What next, flight?
>
>Do you have any pictures of the other trash can you put together? I am
>always looking for great ideas and projects.
>
>Thanks for the info!

Attached to this is a jpeg of our "Hamper Havoc" as seen at our Haunt last
year. This had no strobe/scream/blacklight, but was used only to amuse the
patrons as they waited to enter. Our "Trash-can" photo did not turn out all
that well.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We manufacture several
different animitronic units, base price our line begins at $325.00.

Hauntingly,
John
 

Name:
Hamper.JPG
Type:
JPEG Image (image/jpeg)
 



*********************************
* Mr.Scary Productions *
* http://www.mrscary.com *
* E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net *
* 1-812-824-8935 *
* FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
*********************************



Subject:
Re: solinoid air control
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:47:17 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
Spookyfx@aol.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey!
> hi
>
> were you the one who said you could get air control solinoids
> for $5?
>
> Please give me more info...
>
> brand, model, what outlet you get yours from.....
>
> thanks
>
> jerry from the list.

Jerry, I went down to a washing machine repair place and bought 3 of
these (I got identical ones to each other, since they had a crate of
them to choose from). They were clothes washing machine water soleniods
that were light blue with a metal l-bracket for attaching. I got them
used for $3.00 each. Invariably you should be able to do this also. I
was quoted $5.00 but they took $13.00 when I got there and they couldn't
break a $100.00 bill ;~D .

Read the info below only if you've never screwed with these before, as I
hadn't.


 He checked these out for me before I left with and ohm meter. He also
blew (with his mouth) through the water-in ports to see if they leaked
too. If any air goes through the solenoid this way, it's bad. The nipple
that is obviously attached with a hose and clamp is the water, or in our
case, air-out. The threaded openings are the air-in (the openings look
as large as water-hose fittings). I bought two threaded PVC pipe caps
from the local Home Base and drilled though the top of one of them and
screwed a 3/8" nipple fitting into it. The fitting and the caps all
threaded on perfectly. The caps needed pipe tape to make them thread
easier, but they went on nicely. The 3/8" nipple allows me to use the
stock water hose that is used on the water solenoids that the guy gave
me a couple of. Be sure to grab some of this while it's cheap or free.

What project are you working on if I can ask?

--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 10:23:40 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
"John P. Jeffries"
References:
1


John P. Jeffries wrote:
 
>
> If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We manufacture several
> different animitronic units, base price our line begins at $325.00.
>
> Hauntingly,
> John
 
> * Mr.Scary Productions *
> * http://www.mrscary.com *
> * E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net *
> * 1-812-824-8935 *
> * FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
> *********************************


Thanks for the pic of hamper havoc. Its a good idea. I will look for
your animatronic items on your home page. Also, you mentioned
strobe/scream/blacklight---- where did you get the scream again? I have
been trying to find a 110 volt horn or siren with no luck. What could I
use for this?

Thanks again.
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:16:59 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
"John P. Jeffries"
References:
1


John P. Jeffries wrote:
 
> Our web-page is still "out of date"...I'm plucking away and editing off-line
> for the new one that will be up (sometime).
>
> As for the "scream", you can get one of the digital recorders from Denny.
> The digital unit I'm looking to carry goes for $90-$95 but is very flexible
> in the way it can be used. Denny's unit is a very good unit for the price.

I looked at this in the home page, and I thought that it worked on
cassette tape instead of digital recording. Also, does this have a
bey-passable speaker and enough power to really scream. Or perhaps it
already carries this ability? I am still interested in this even if it
doesn't, since I need at least on or two for my monsters.

>

> Hummm horns...Radio Shack has several units, or drop by an alarm company. If
> you are in the costal range, some boat stores have some nasty sounding 110v
> horns. If all else fails, go back to radio shack and pick up a 110v
> transformer to 12vDC. Last I checked, they were about $30.00.
>

I will check boat places asap. That's great advice.

 
 
> Larry Lund could tell you more about the TCT than I could. Our units are
> built in a far different way, with different workings.

Who is Larry Lund again? Is he from the Terror B D place? And also, do
you have descriptions on how yours are made?

 
> I'll be glad to help in any way I can.
>
> John
> *********************************
> * Mr.Scary Productions *
> * http://www.mrscary.com *
> * E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net *
> * 1-812-824-8935 *
> * FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
> *********************************

Thanks very much again John.

--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: Trash Can Trauma
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:34:15 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
llund@suffolk.lib.ny.us
References:
1


Lund wrote:
>
 
> I just put a small spotlight that is activated the same as the wahing
> machine solinoid. For sound, I picked up a bulb horn commonly used on
> bicycles and removed the bulb. Then I attached the horn into the air
> stream, and it worked fine. Carl Chetta used an automotive air horn in his
> portable self contained unit and the sound alone is enough to make you
> jump!
 

Great advice. Thanks for the response. I will make the guide if needed.
Is it always needed? Or is this just sometimes? I noticed that you used
the chain, but Carl didn't. Which is better? I am going to look into the
air horn, since it sounds really excellent. A quick question for you;
out of the events you use, how does the trauma rate with your treators?

By the way, I'm proud to say I now have the entire functioning mechanism
to the trauma, and have tested it out and it works great. All the
fittings and such are holding fine so far, and I even added another
needle valve for the bleeder so that everything is very adjustable. I'm
thinking that I'll be able to attach the out of the bleeder valve into
the horn, for the horn to act as the bleeder. (Where did Carl find this
horn? All I could find in the stores today were 12 volt air horns.) I
would hope that the upshot of this would be to add the
"BLAAAAUUuuggghhhnnn" sound as the air bleeds out of the system as an
after effect of the event. (4-2-97 Archive Keeper's note; this does not work with
Automobile Air Horns, since it takes so much pressure to activate it. However,
I am positive that the bicycle horn would offer this effect.)
Does Carl's horn sound dramatically better
than the one in yours? Also, did Carl wind up using a strobe light
inside of his?

I went out this morning and found a compact strobe light from radio
shack that has a mounting plate on it, so it should be pretty easy to
use, and the size makes it a cinche to tuck inside. I'm stoked at the
effect this should have.

Have you experienced any failure with your trauma yet? I take it you
made yours last September or so?  

I need to ask you about the trash can you used. Is there some reason you
used a 55 gallon can instead of 45? I mean, it will fit in the 45, so
why the 55? Perhaps because it allows the arm to be longer, having a
more exaggerated throw? Or is that because the 55 is taller, and
therefore a better viewing height?

One last question. What type of trigger did you use for yours? Is it
motion detected? I am trying to decide whether I should use a 555 ECT
purchased from a list member for $110.00 or so, or wait untill he comes
out with a 556 unit that should cost less, or use X-10. The X-10 sounds
scary as hell, even though I spend my life on computers. The 555 is a
bit spendy, yet it is supposed to run a number of events. Since I've
never seen or used any of these, I have no idea of the advantages or
disadvantages of each as compared to each other.

Thanks, and I hope soon, I'll have a new, bitchen trauma photo for you
to gawk at.
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:48:15 -0500 (EST)
From:
Lund
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Brer Bear wrote:
-------------------
> 1) Has anyone seen the "sound and lights" added to the trauma? I found

I just put a small spotlight that is activated the same as the wahing
machine solinoid. For sound, I picked up a bulb horn commonly used on
bicycles and removed the bulb. Then I attached the horn into the air
stream, and it worked fine. Carl Chetta used an automotive air horn in his
portable self contained unit and the sound alone is enough to make you
jump!
 -----------------

> 2) Does anyone know if the trauma needs something to keep the head
> facing straight forward or not? The pop-up skeleton utilizing the bike

Attach a piece of PVC (maybe 1") vertically against the read of the trash
can. 2 pipe clamps fed through slits and put around the pipe work fine.
Then get another piece of PVC that will fit easily into the other. Cap it
and slide it into the attached piece. Put a screw through the lid and into
the PVC cap to hold it. This will serve as a guide to keep everything
lined up.
--------------

> 3) Has anyone found the best bicycle pump as far as quality goes (as in
> the top not blowing off as easily) for these mechanized events?

I understand that Toys are Us now has an all steel pump that is slightly
longer but I have not checked it out yet.
---------------

> 4) Is the hydraulic or the pneumatic screen door opener used for the
> arm? I have found that the space available for the fitting at the back

The screen door cylinder s I used are the ones that have a very strong
return spring built into them. They are pneumatic, as there is an air
adjustment at the rear of the cylinder . I attached the rear end to the 2x4
support using hose clamps. As far as the air inlet fitting, I had a bunch
of 1/4" brass ells laying around. Take the adjustment screw out and some
closures accepted the 1/4" brass fitting just by forcing it in and letting
it thread its own way. On others I just drilled out the hole and forced
the fitting in.
-----------------
I hope this helps

 Larry
_ ___c Lawrence H. Lund    
E-mail: llund@suffolk.lib.ny.us
llund179@aol.com
Phone: (516)-231-8790
Fax: (516)-434-9315






Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:17:49 -0500
From:
"John P. Jeffries"
To:
wil@wilschock.com


(snip)

>Thanks for the pic of hamper havoc. Its a good idea. I will look for
>your animatronic items on your home page. Also, you mentioned
>strobe/scream/blacklight---- where did you get the scream again? I have>been trying to find a 110 volt horn or siren with no luck. What could I
>use for this?
>
>Thanks again.


Our web-page is still "out of date"...I'm plucking away and editing off-line
for the new one that will be up (sometime).

As for the "scream", you can get one of the digital recorders from Denny.
The digital unit I'm looking to carry goes for $90-$95 but is very flexible
in the way it can be used. Denny's unit is a very good unit for the price.

Hummm horns...Radio Shack has several units, or drop by an alarm company. If
you are in the costal range, some boat stores have some nasty sounding 110v
horns. If all else fails, go back to radio shack and pick up a 110v
transformer to 12vDC. Last I checked, they were about $30.00.

If you still have problems finding a 110v horn, there are several companies
that I work with that have some. I'll keep my eye out for a good one.

Larry Lund could tell you more about the TCT than I could. Our units are
built in a far different way, with different workings.


I'll be glad to help in any way I can.

John
*********************************
* Mr.Scary Productions *
* http://www.mrscary.com *
* E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net *
* 1-812-824-8935 *
* FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
*********************************


Subject:
Re: Trauma....again.....
Date:
Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:11:05 -0500
From:
"John P. Jeffries"
To:
wil@wilschock.com


>> As for the "scream", you can get one of the digital recorders from Denny.
>> The digital unit I'm looking to carry goes for $90-$95 but is very flexible
>> in the way it can be used. Denny's unit is a very good unit for the price.
>
>I looked at this in the home page, and I thought that it worked on
>cassette tape instead of digital recording. Also, does this have a
>bey-passable speaker and enough power to really scream. Or perhaps it
>already carries this ability? I am still interested in this even if it
>doesn't, since I need at least on or two for my monsters.

I don't know if Terror by Design has it up on the web-site...It's a small
unit (about the size of a pack of smokes) with the sensor. The one we should
be carrying in the near future has an internal speaker, external mic jack,
timer, sensor, and "push" button to activate. The push button can be
removed, and replaced with a jack to plug in a trip mat. The sound quality
is very good.



> 
>> Larry Lund could tell you more about the TCT than I could. Our units are
>> built in a far different way, with different workings.
>
>Who is Larry Lund again? Is he from the Terror B D place? And also, do
>you have descriptions on how yours are made?


Larry Lund is one that built the TCT and put up the info for the chatlist
list. He is not affiliated with Terror by Design.

As for our units, we can do custom builds, or our standard units. Each is
build from industrial grade materials, and UL listed parts. After assembly,
they are tested in-shop for several hours to ensure proper movement and
operation. Each carries a 90 day warrantee on parts and labor. For business
reasons, we do not give information on blue-prints as some have
patent-pending or copyrights.

If you would like some information on our line, I will be sure to send you
some.

The TCT and other units on the list are fun projects for anyone. Bob Andrews
page has several other units for the home-haunter. Very easy to construct,
and look impressive once completed. Our shop is geared toward business and
people that would like an item, but don't have the knowledge to build
something, or the fundage to purchase the several-thousand dollar
"wiz-bangs" that seem to fail when needed most. Don't get me wrong, if you
need help, I'll be glad to assist in any way possible, I just don't want you
to get confused as to what we build for our clients. From simple Hands form
the grave to full-body animitronics, ours are built to last at an affordable
price.

Hauntingly,

John.
*********************************
* Mr.Scary Productions *
* http://www.mrscary.com *
* E-mail: mrscary@kiva.net *
* 1-812-824-8935 *
* FAX: 1-812-824-9960 *
*********************************

Subject:
Re: Trash Can Trauma
Date:
Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:12:12 -0500 (EST)
From:
Lund
To: Brer Bear


I did not use the x-10 that is controlled by the computer, mine is
controlled by a remote that I carry around with me. It allows me to
control whatever effect has the corresponding sensor on it. It actually
uses your house wireing to transmit the signal from the remote to a
receiver that is plugged into an outlet. This reciever then transmits a
unique signal to the specific controller you addressed when you pushed
your button on the remote. The only problem I had with the system is that
I had to purchase a signal bridge and install it in my main house
electrical box. The reason is that if some of the units were on different
110v legs they werent working. This drove me crasy until I found out the
cause. Once the bride was installed everything worked OK. You may or may
not need a bridge.
I would make the trip for the garbage can.

 Larry
_ ___c Lawrence H. Lund  
E-mail: llund@suffolk.lib.ny.us
llund179@aol.com
Phone: (516)-231-8790
Fax: (516)-434-9315






Subject:
Psyco Alert
Date:
Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:11:11 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
Lund
References:
1


Lund wrote:
not need a bridge.> I would make the trip for the garbage can.
 

This is a good one. I just drove over 50 miles to get the Rubbermaid
"208L 55 Gallon" trash can. I go there, bought it and brought it back to
the truck. I just so happened to still have the Rubbermaid "170L 45
Gallon" trash can with me. (I didn't want to return it before getting
the right one). Then, before I left I thought for the hell of it I would
check out the actual size difference. Here's the good part; It was the
same can. That's not a typo. The one can said 45 gallons (170 liters)
and the other said 55 gallons (208 liters) but then next to that it also
said not quite as prominantly 45 gallons (170 liters). ON THE SAME
LABEL. I think I have this figured out. On the Wall MArt labels they
apparently try to list the trash bag size that the can uses, and on the
other one they don't bother. So I drove for an hour just to rebuy the
same damn can. I strongly suggest you let others know about this
discrepancy that Rubbermaid has going that may wind up running some
other poor soul all over the place like me again. If you look at your
can, I'll bet you have the Wall Mart can that has the idiot label that
claims its both 45 and 55 gallons! I was slightly amazed! I guess now
you know why I wasn't sure why my 45 gallon can wouldn't work! HAH! 

Because of your input on the X10, I am going to look into using this in
earnest. Let's face it, it has to cost less than $110.00 apiece 555
ECTs. (When you're needing a few of them anyway.)

I have to find time to get down to Pep Boys tonight and pick up a pair
of air horns for $25.00. They come with their own air pump, but I'm
hoping that I can hook up my air to it. What's your take on using the
bleeder for the horn, anyway? Do you think this may work? The sound I
would be looking for is the humorous wane of an air horn such the sound
a police car in hot pursuit makes at the very end after crashing
upside-down down a road bank. Almost like the event is chiding the
victim after scaring the hell out of him. ;~D

Thanks again for all your help. If this all goes well, I will be
shooting off specs on how mine differs from yours just slightly. I hope
that I have the broken chain thing you spoke of having a problem with
licked. My goul mask with flashing red eyes is on order.

Wil  

--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces

Death Lord
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/playgate.htm
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
PROMISES, PROMISES...
Date:
Thu, 3 Apr 1997 02:45:35 -0500 (EST)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Well know I have yet to post more
info on the TACO ILLUSION.

I went off onto other projects.

Same bloody reason for not posting the
gif to the sound to motion switch.

I got a great deal on a car alarm from radio shack
and was inspired to make a remote control version
of the trash can trauma. I LOVE this idea.
I normally do not like "startles" but I realize
that my customers DO! And this one is a
very deceptive one. The idea that a mundane
trash can out on the corner of the street
on Halloween can turn into such a pant wetter
is very good. I like the subtle way of getting so close
to the victims! The car alarm was only $19
and the alarm was a simple blast rather than the
new pattern cycles that would not fit the
scare at all! I was lucky, I figured if it was the new
sounding alarm I would just use it as a car alarm.
I had to fish around on the circuit board to find
a place to steal current to trip a relay,
BUT I FOUND IT!
So I now have a remote control, self contained,
sound and relay activated "brain" for my
"Oscar the grouch zombie".
GOD I love it when my blind tinkering
gets results. Most of the time all I get
is electrocuted!

ANYWAY, when I get bored with this I will
return to the TACO illusion. I will get the gif
on my webpage hopefully this weekend and let you all
know. It is easy even for you non-soldering iron types,
and it will provide great control of relays from recorded
sound.


Yours ghouly Jerry -


@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
 
^v^ Esoteric Toys ^v^
(Creative, Not expensive solutions in special effects.)
Web page: http://members.aol.com/Spookyfx/index.html

@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@

Subject:
Re: PROMISES, PROMISES...
Date:
Fri, 4 Apr 1997 00:06:54 -0500 (EST)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
To:
wil@wilschock.com


In a message dated 97-04-03 11:15:14 EST, you write:

<< How fun. It sounds like you have something pretty nice. Now I would
 drill a hole in the concrete and bolt that sucker down. Too nice to
 lose. Let me know if you want any pointers. I just finished a Trauma and
 have developed some items that will help produce the best version IMH
 opnion.
 Wil
>>
--------------------------------------------
WELL SPILL YOUR GUTS!
(pun most certianly intended!)
jerry


Subject:
Re: PROMISES, PROMISES...
Date:
Fri, 04 Apr 1997 08:50:51 -0800
From:
Death Lord
To:
Spookyfx@aol.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-04-03 11:15:14 EST, you write:
 
> --------------------------------------------
> WELL SPILL YOUR GUTS!
> (pun most certianly intended!)
> jerry

The above was in response to your post announcing completion of a remote
trigger for a completely self-contained Trash Can Trauma.

 Okay, first, I would use two pumps if I made another one. I would set
them as close side-by-side as I could, and link their handles together
with 3/4 x 3/4 wood stips along each side of the handles, screwed to a
block of wood on top. What does this do? This way you do not need IMH
opinon any guide for the lid and mask to remain facing forward. Also,
this would make the construction much more durable at the end of the
throw, which would then eliminate the need for throw limiters.

However, if you decide to use just one pump, do NOT use the somewhat
lighter-duty composite pump, but find a pump that is all metal so that
the top screws metal-threads to metal-threads. Then, to limit the throw,
I used two spring-loaded screen door chain stops. (I have a good bit of
directions I will be passing along on how this is done cleanly in a very
near up-coming compilation of my assembly. If you can put this project
off for a couple/three weeks, I will post the photos and instructions.)

For more tips on this, visit the '97 TOPIC Archives under 'Trauma on my
website. There is some important info there on confusion over which can,
which strobe light and sound. If you have any specific questions, please
just e me.

Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: mail
Date:
Sat, 12 Apr 1997 01:34:28 -0400 (EDT)
From:
BUSH134@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Well, I have already done this once, but I decided to type it again since I
have not got any responses.

My family is working on our house right now, it is a huge house,but needs a
lot of work. Anyway, we are constantly working on our house and I am going
to get to live in the basement(pretty cool) I am eventually going to get a
studio set up to work in and I hope to start making props, masks, costumes,
animatronics, prosthetics, etc. If anyone would like to maybe buy something
from me, I am more than happy to make it. I do realize that half of the fun
of Halloween is decorating yourself, but I just want to offer this to anybody
who doesn't have the time or the skill. Just email me and we can talk about
it. This house is huge and I told my mother to sell it to me when she wants
to sell it cause it will make an awsome haunt. Also, this Halloween I am
definatley going to decorate, but I need some help with a few things. First
of all, I want to make a full body popping corpse from a tombstone. I plan
to make a dirt mound, actually plastic or urethane, and then have a corpse
mounted on some device. A person walks past the tombstone and a sensor
causes the mechanism to work. The corpse flies up and the dirt mound splits
in two and the corpse jumps out, hopefully scaring the people. I need some
ideas to make the mechanism. I also hope to make a ghost bride just like the
one at the Haunted Mansion. It is a figure of a bride but has a skull for a
head and skeleton hands. She will also have a glowing red heart that beats.
 I think I can do that on my own. I need some more ideas for my yard. Think
along the lines of swamps, graveyards, werewolves, ect. Hope to hear from
you.

Mike


Subject:
Re: mail
Date:
Sat, 12 Apr 1997 13:28:17 -0700
From:
Wil
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


BUSH134@aol.com wrote:
 a full body popping corpse from a tombstone. I plan
> to make a dirt mound, actually plastic or urethane, and then have a corpse
> mounted on some device. A person walks past the tombstone and a sensor
> causes the mechanism to work. The corpse flies up and the dirt mound splits
> in two and the corpse jumps out, hopefully scaring the people. 
> Mike



Okay, Mike. Since I just finished a Trash Can Trauma, I think I could
possibly help. While I personally would not be interested in digging a
hole this size in my yard, I would like to illustrate this idea in its
self-contained form that could be buried. This is a bit of an elaborate
removal from the one I plan to build for my own yard, where I want the
corpse to pop out of the top section of the already-open top-section of
the coffin. My corpse will be hinged at the waist, thus making the
entire pneumatic effort extremly simple compartively to this. But the
theory of what I'm about to write to you came directly from Carl
Chetta's Trash Can Trauma with a slight modification.




 Let's call this "Grave Yard Trauma" in honor of the progenitor.

Build a simple rectangular coffin. The doors will need to be split down
the center rather than one single one hinged from one side for the
effect you're looking for I think. Inside the coffin you will place your
skeleton-corpse.

Under the coffin you will need to drop down a foot or so with an
attaching "sub-floor" that could be hidden by any kind of sheet or what
not as the coffin sits above ground, proped up so it is on a 55 or so
degree angle. Obviously, if you are going to dig a hole for this, the
hiding of this sub-floor is of no consequence, and this should work at
least as well fully horizontal anyway in a grave-yard setting. Also, in
this grave setting the sub floor could be built on an angle, so that the
corpse would be "reclined" rather than entirely horizontal. This would
also cause the corpse to move out forward somewhat toward the victim,
increasing the scare factor. You would have to accept the fact that any
angle such as this though, would decrease the life of the pumps
somewhat. Vertical would last longer, but decrease slightly the effect.

On the sub-floor you attach three all-metal bicycle pumps, running down
from the head to the base of the spine. (i.e. one pump under the head,
one under the center of the back and one under the pelvis). Before
attaching the corps to these, you will attach the three bicycle pump
handles together via a strip of aluminum channel that fits over the top
of, and cradles the handles. It would be a simple thing to attach a 3/8"
sheet of plywood to the channel-aluminum that the body could be tied
down to in order to make your body rigid.
 
The three pumps then are attached to the air hose in tandem, so that
when your air is shot into the system, they will lift simultaneously. If
the full throw of the pumps is a bit too far for your effect, then
simply use screen-door closer limiters that have a spring in the length
of the chain for absorbing the shock of the abrupt stop, and by
attaching one on each side of the body's plywood base, you can adjust
the throw by the length of your chain.

Opening the doors would be a snap. Each door has its own hinges. Under
the center of each door, close to the wall, you attach a screen-door
closer with the set screw removed and replaced with an automotive-brake
bleeder screw with the inside tip of the blleder screw cut off to allow
maximum air passage. By attaching in-line 1/4" needle valves, you will
be able to adjust the screen door closers to open before the pumps
actuate and raise your corpse.

At the correct timing, this could easily scare a person into a coma.
Especially assisted by lights and a fog horn or blood-curdling scream
syncd to the solenoid. If this event kills any patrons through
coronaries, its not my fault. I was merely but a pawn in the scheme of
the creation of this dastardly event. I want a picture if anyone builds
one!

Wil

P.S.
If you would like something a little less involved, perhaps a "Grave
Jumper" mechanism could be adapted for you use. This is found at Don's
site at http://www.calweb.com/~bertino/halloween.html#Hallplan

have fun.
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
"Chase Your TOTs Down The Driveway And Up The Street Gremlin Under The Porch Trauma"
Date:
Sat, 14 Jun 1997 13:53:52 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Howdy Howdy Howdy.

I got a call this morning from the Fathers of the Trash Can Trauma.
Larry Lund and Carl Chetta gave me a call at my house and put me on the
speaker phone to unviel their idea for a new event.
Its simliar to the trauma, but different enough to command its own
bandwidth here on the list. I asked them if this wasn't really a good
bit of a blend of both the Trash Can Trauma and the Leaping Loafer, and
they had to agree that it was. First off, I'll tell you that its not
just an idea, but I am under the impression that there has been at least
the prototype of the working heart to this that substantiates its
effect.

The little guy appears to be just another mild-mannered 10 gallon can
that is sitting quitely along the walkway leading to the front door of
the haunted home. When the switch is tripped there is a sequence of
three things that seem to happen all in the blink of an eye. The lid
flips open, as it is hinged in the back and sent up and held up with a
screen door closer (If I have any part of this wrong, its cool, Carl and
Larry will set it straight later for you.) This funtion actually happens
clearly first. (I'll tell you the secret to that in a moment.) Then
directly behind this, the head is sent up about 10" or so as quickly as
a little rocket, finally followed by the entire 10 gallon can springing
up to its feet. What started out as an 18" or so tall can winds up being
nearly four feet tall I believe.

 Once again, this is all supposed to happen in a split second, so the
effect is startling to say the least. The most disorienting thing I
think you would experience is that this little thing that is supposed to
just sit there not only moves, but at the speed of which it is being
hurled up at you would give you the direct feeling that it was on its
way to your face for a close, personal visit with your head. Then,
(Carl, not letting people leave the haunt entirely in as good of heath
as when they arrived) there is the air horn and strobe light that is
part of the whole effect, meant to kill the weaker TOTs in the herd.

 The whole idea is quite simple enough really, since the head is sent up
with a screen door closure, just as the bike pump does for the trauma.
However, this entire project uses four screen door rams, and they would
all operate at the same monent if the same air pressure were applied.
Needle valves would slow down the subsequent rams, yes, but Carl and
Larry wanted this to operate at blinding speed, so the needle valves
weren't the hot setup. So what is the hot set up? I'm glad you asked.
Carl found out that the screen door cylinder cylinder 's crimped end can be
staightend out enough to get the washer out that holds all the guts of
the closure inside the cylinder . Once you get this out and do so without
loosing teeth, then the spring can actually be cut down, removed or even
replaced with differing strengths of springs! What this does is allows
the first cylinder for the lid to activate without much of any resistance at
all since the spring has been nearly eliminated. Then, the next function
of the head flying up directly on its heels is enabled by replacing the
spring with a lighter one, or cut down, or eliminated (I only spoke with
them for a few minutes, so this isn't 100% clear yet.) Then to finish
off the process of the whole can standing up the rams are attached to a
round steel ring on the ground under the ripper (I needed a name for
reference, it hasn't really been named as of yet. Carl and Larry will
dubb the assembly later.) I would think that it will take three rams for
this for stability, but the prototype is supposed to use just two.

 They said if you blink, you'll miss it. But I'm guessing it'll be hard
to blink with a truck horn blasting at 30 CFM in your ear. This can be
of interest to those coming to the workshop this weekend. The air rams
we'll be working with will give you a taste of their response to
different levels of air pressure. Oh, BTW, even though the creators of
the illustrious TCT asked be about what the new addition to the trauma
was that I have added, I have not yet revealed that to them! I had to
beg off for a week, promising that once it is revealed at the workshop,
I'll be posting pictures on my webpage. Though simple to do, I believe
it makes the trauma just that much more animated. And of course I
realize one of these days the "Chase Your TOTs Down The Driveway And Up
The Street Gremlin Under The Porch Trauma" will be unveiled by one of
our fantasmechanics, but until then, baby steps. Baby steps.  
--

Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.deathlord.net
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X