First things first I will give you a shopping list to make this as simple as possible for the project.

(1) 1" x 1" angle aluminum, 19" long
(2) 1" x 1/4" flat aluminum, 19" long
(1) 1/2" x 1/8" flat aluminum, 8" long
(6) 1" Light Open S hooks
(2) flat head machine screws, 10-32 x 3/4"
(1) 1/4" U bolt (wire / rope clip)
(3) medium strength eye hooks with wood screw threads (for ceiling)
(1) motor; 6.5 RPM TYPE E
(3) 24" lengths of black cord (suspend the platform from ceiling)
(2) 36" black coated fishing leaders w/ clip ends
(1) 18" black coated fishing leader w/ clip ends
(1) 1 1/4" patio door roller, Prime-Line #D-1502
(1) 1/4" x 1" bolts
(1) 1/4" wing nut
(1) AWG 16 x 2 extension cord
(2) insulated 1/4" female terminal disconnects
(3) zip ties
(2) 2 volt LED (Radio Shack No #276-209 T-1 3/4 size (5 MM)
(1) 5 volt flashing LED (R.S. No #276-036c T-1 3/4 size (5 MM)
(1) 9 volt battery
(1) 9 volt battery outlet
(1) 18" blacklight with fixture
(2) 4' x 8' (or one 8' square) cheesecloth
(7) wire coat hangers or equivalent
(1) Black paint (acrylic)
(1) Green fluorescent paint
(1) One Styrofoam wig form
(3) Single wheel miniature pulleys

    Since this is extremely simple to make, you will need only a drill, soldering gun, needle nose pliers, a few drill bits and a crescent wrench for it's construction. Budget roughly 4 total hours for build time.

   Since my idea was borne out of making this not only simple to build, but lightweight first and foremost I decided on using aluminum for the entire construction. In our first photo you will see the detail needed to drill holes in your 19" section of angle. It is important to note here that this how to is based on an ECM 6.5 RPM, 2 AMP motor. If you cannot find an ECM then you will have to locate your own spacing for holes in your motor platform for attachment. But the idea is just to locate it around on center to this angle section that will allow your drive arm enough space to clear the marionette's head line.

   Here are the locations of where to place three holes in it's two arms that will fold out to form the T needed. The first prototype was made with angle for the arms, but this is a bit easier to build with flat stock. 

   Next we need to make the drive arm that will attach to the motor itself. In the original plans the suggested length of this arm was 24" long. After many different lengths that I tested, I came to the conclusion that the ghost just didn't act like what I thought a hovering ghost might really look like with such a long travel. So ultimately I cut this down to the 8" you see here. Today, 8" to 10" is now considered the ideal drive arm length in the haunt industry which came from this project. As you can see here we are using 1/2" flat stock aluminum for this. 3/4" stock would work just as well but in the event the arm becomes entangled in something, the 1/2" arm can bend or break off, averting possible serious damage that a motor this powerful could cause. I look at this size material as a "breaker switch" if you will for this exposed drive arm. You will need to clamp this in a vise and use a crescent wrench to give it half a turn so it is on a right angle to each end. Next we assemble.