Here is an illustration of what I believe to be pretty good dimensions for building a wire upper torso for your ghost based off of Ferguson's original suggestions on this prop with some changes I feel can be significant. At once you will notice that this skeleton isn't just flat in front, hanging down with no "body" at all. I have added the dimensions here for you to enhance your ghost. As was passed along to me, I will also suggest using coat hanger wire for this construction. It is light and strong as well as easy to use. If you are wondering where to get them, you can always find bundles of these for a little bit of nothing at the local Thrift Store. 

   We'll start with the shoulders. As you can see from the overall photo above, the distance from the shoulder joint to the top is about 11 1/2". At the top of the spine which will be the top of the head be sure to make a small loop for your line clip to fasten to. Next bend a piece long enough to make the breast shape you see illustrated that is protruding outward and downward about equal distances. Use your own judgment here. Make sure that at each shoulder there is an open eyelet large enough for your arm section to move hinge here without binding. Next make two sections that will finish in length at 10 1/2" for the upper arms, remembering to thread one end into the shoulder socket before closing that end up. Next you will want to make two forearms that are 11" from elbow to wrist, but then continue on 3 additional inches to form an elongated circle at the end we will be using as the hands. Since I have seen these ghosts fly with and without hands of all types, I like the look of a hidden hand that keeps with the wispy appearance of the ghost the best. At the wrist it is important to leave a loop large enough to attach the marionette line clip. Be careful in your joints that the end of the wires you are twisting together are not jagged enough to catch and tear your robe later.

   Once you have the upper torso together, wrap another single piece of wire around the middle of the neck that will be long enough to make about three winds around the main spine and then stick out each side about 2". You will also need to make each of these tabs stick out backward of the spine for about 1/2", the same distance as you will be inlaying this armature inside of the wig form head. Now is a good time to hang your ghost's skeleton from your leaders attached to the Ultimate platform. The 18" line will be attached to the head and of course the two 36" lines go to each wrist. In the terrible photo here you can see the back side of our ghost that has been fitted with a wig form that has been cut in half. Since your ghost will likely only be seen from the front in a controlled environment due to the blacklight that will be illuminating her, not having fullness at the back of the skull is a non event and most importantly it reduces weight that your motor will have to be lifting. If yours will be seen from all sides then obviously you will need to skip that step. This also makes it simple to insert the LED eyes through to the eye sockets from the back as I did here. As you can see I cut a path in the back of the wig form to match the form of my wire using the tip of a hot soldering iron guided by the wire itself. This will allow for an inlay of about 1/2" to 3/4". Through the wire tabs I screwed the wire to the head. I used 2" bugle-head drywall screws with coarse threads for this and feel the attachment is exceptionally secure. I believe that hot glue would work just as well.

   The wires you see going into the head are for the LED eyes as mentioned earlier. The Ultimate concept of this design doesn't lend itself to the color-organ driven eyes Ferguson fitted his ghost with in his detail, so we are going for something much less bulky. In the draft here you can see the way to use one flashing LED and one regular LED to create flashing eyes that pulse together in unison. Solder the two middle legs together as shown and simply run one wire from the first LED to a 9 volt battery, and the other wire that is coming from the other to the other post of the battery. The small battery then can be fitted right inside the foam wig form in the back and held in place with a piece of wire bent into a shape to cradle the small amount of battery extending out of the wig form. Attach to the styrofoam with eyelets on each end with 2" drywall screws as we used to attach the head to the marionette itself. For non- flashing eyes, simply purchase two of the 2v LEDs as shown in this illustration. The reason this will work even though 2v+2v=4v is because these LEDs will work at 4 volts minimum, but have a maximum of 12 volts each.